Audi A5 Forum & Audi S5 Forum banner

Sportback Subwoofer Upgrade

38K views 52 replies 18 participants last post by  duffmeister7  
#1 ·
Hi,

Yesterday I wasn't excited with the B&O subwoofer in my 2011 S5 Sportback, searching through the forum for an upgrade only lead me to upgrades for the Coupe/ Cabrio.
So why not remove the unit out of the car and see if I can do some stuff myself.

Taking the unit out is a piece of cake, one connector on the left side and 3 nuts to loossen.
One big plastic ported subwoofer, owning a whooping 16,5 cm 6 Ohm unlabeled/ branded sub driver.
(I am unable to take B&O seriously at the moment, 3.5k for the B&O system no .. way)


Drilled out the rivets (do this carfully, the plastic underneath will melt, short burts and change to the next in between cooldown), took out the driver and found a nice 75mm mounting depth.

Searching the internet for a 16,5 cm subwoofer driver is no fun at all!
Kicker has the CompRT CWR672 for just 89 euros:

General Features:
  • 6-3/4" CompRT Series Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 300 watts
    • RMS: 150 watts
  • Recommended power range: 70 - 150 watts RMS
  • Impedance: Dual 2 ohms
  • Injection-molded polypropylene cone
  • Tough Santoprene surround with interlocking front gasket
  • Dual pair of spring-loaded wire terminals custom designed for shallow mount installations
  • Weather-proof for outdoor powersports applications
  • Double venting for max cooling
  • Inverted-bumped back plate and bumped top plate for full voice-coil clearance and excursion while maintaining a shallow profile
  • High-temp voice coil for increased power handling
  • Resonance Frequency (Fs): 55.6 Hz
  • Top-mount depth: 2-3/4"
  • Sensitivity: 82.dB
  • Authorized Internet Dealer
  • 1-year Manufacturer's Warranty

I ordered one instantly and will be delivered in 3 working days. Plan is to wire it in series, to go from 2 Ohm Dual Voice Coil to 4 Ohm Single Voice Coil.
Having no idea what the amp can deliver at the subwoofer output, not even after searching the web for hours, changing the sub driver from 6 Ohm to 4 Ohm should allready deliver more power.

Mounting the sub driver will be another issue, but I already have some thoughts about umbrella plugs for drywall constructions.
That should work and gives me the possibility to dissemble at again.

I will keep you guys posted on the process when the Kicker is delivered.
 
  • Like
Reactions: atana5ov
#34 · (Edited)
i think you have me convinced!

I never even sat in a car with a proper 10" or 12" sub so i have nothing to compare against, but i know that i am after quality sound and not how loud it is. I think it should make me happy.

Just out of curiosity, what would happen if the kicker was connected in parallel? technically 2ohms instead of 4ohms means 2x current draw so twice as much power output?
 
#36 ·
I thought of the same, but there is zero to none documentation on the DSP Amp.

But trust me, I have build showcars for SPL (lets blow out the windshield and ear drums) contests and sound quality (every rattle or strange vibrations/ noise will set you back in points) contests. This works stupidly and surprising well, but I only installed it on Sportbacks.
 
#37 ·
You make it sound better and better.

The only thing that worries me now is that I might not get the same result because you had B&O to begin with, and I only have the 10 speaker Audi Audio system. I assume the stock amps are different?

I also changed my radio coding to "dynaudio profile" in byte 4, as I heard that it's the coding for B&O and it did massively increase the sound quality. However I also heard that in some cases with mmi 3g+ it disables the subwoofer adjustment through mmi or even sometimes disables the sub all together. I better check that first.

Do you happen to know anything about that by any chance?
 
#42 ·
I haven't had time to fully adjust the settings on the Mimi system but so far it does sound a bit lower and more punchy on most tracks. With the right music especially at higher volumes it does drop quite well..not night and day but better.

The lack of subwoofer adjustment on the Mimi system is annoying as the door speakers come in too much and cause door rattle but that was a problem with the older stock sub too.

For ÂŁ109 and a couple of hours I think it was worth it for a neat upgrade and no loss of boot space.

It has not blown me away but I used to have 2 x 10inch subs in my old car with a separate amp. I didn't want that level of base or hastle this time so went for the Kicker upgrade.
 
#44 · (Edited)
@andycparker Thanks for the feedback. Did you block the sub vent to create a sealed enclosure?
Mmmm might be time to go shopping…
I had the port sealed but wasnt happy with the sound. I unblocked it today and changed a few settings and it is much better and what I had hoped it would sound like.

These settings worked for me to get a good bit of base out of the system without the door speakers rattling the doors.

Base 3/4
Treble just over half.
L/R Central
Fade Fully back to 1/4 forwards.
Surround 0 to 1/4
Focus All
Can't remember the last setting but put to off. This just adjusts sound depending on road noise.
Volume higher than normal.

For a bit less base you can slide the fader more towards the front position and use lower volumes.
 
#51 ·
Hi Elmo, đź‘‹.

This is a fantastic post and something I would like to try if possible. We own a b8.5 rs4 but think it's the same as a s5 sport back audio wise etc.

Ours has the B and O setup and I will agree the sound quality is very good but it just lacks base.

We have the sub in the spare wheel etc so I think this I might give ago.

Are you driving this sub from the factory amp, so just plugging the new sub into the wires in the boot etc or are you running it of a separate amp for extra gain control etc?

Ryan