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Sportback Subwoofer Upgrade

38K views 52 replies 18 participants last post by  duffmeister7  
#1 ·
Hi,

Yesterday I wasn't excited with the B&O subwoofer in my 2011 S5 Sportback, searching through the forum for an upgrade only lead me to upgrades for the Coupe/ Cabrio.
So why not remove the unit out of the car and see if I can do some stuff myself.

Taking the unit out is a piece of cake, one connector on the left side and 3 nuts to loossen.
One big plastic ported subwoofer, owning a whooping 16,5 cm 6 Ohm unlabeled/ branded sub driver.
(I am unable to take B&O seriously at the moment, 3.5k for the B&O system no .. way)


Drilled out the rivets (do this carfully, the plastic underneath will melt, short burts and change to the next in between cooldown), took out the driver and found a nice 75mm mounting depth.

Searching the internet for a 16,5 cm subwoofer driver is no fun at all!
Kicker has the CompRT CWR672 for just 89 euros:

General Features:
  • 6-3/4" CompRT Series Subwoofer
  • Power Handling:
    • Peak: 300 watts
    • RMS: 150 watts
  • Recommended power range: 70 - 150 watts RMS
  • Impedance: Dual 2 ohms
  • Injection-molded polypropylene cone
  • Tough Santoprene surround with interlocking front gasket
  • Dual pair of spring-loaded wire terminals custom designed for shallow mount installations
  • Weather-proof for outdoor powersports applications
  • Double venting for max cooling
  • Inverted-bumped back plate and bumped top plate for full voice-coil clearance and excursion while maintaining a shallow profile
  • High-temp voice coil for increased power handling
  • Resonance Frequency (Fs): 55.6 Hz
  • Top-mount depth: 2-3/4"
  • Sensitivity: 82.dB
  • Authorized Internet Dealer
  • 1-year Manufacturer's Warranty

I ordered one instantly and will be delivered in 3 working days. Plan is to wire it in series, to go from 2 Ohm Dual Voice Coil to 4 Ohm Single Voice Coil.
Having no idea what the amp can deliver at the subwoofer output, not even after searching the web for hours, changing the sub driver from 6 Ohm to 4 Ohm should allready deliver more power.

Mounting the sub driver will be another issue, but I already have some thoughts about umbrella plugs for drywall constructions.
That should work and gives me the possibility to dissemble at again.

I will keep you guys posted on the process when the Kicker is delivered.
 
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Discussion starter · #2 ·
Got the Kicker in today and started finishing right away.

First the pictures from the post before:

The result after drilling the rivets out. (Done this over the sink so the pieces of metals from drilling would not fly around)
176688


The massive B&O sound quality subwoofer driver, it still makes me laugh everytime I see it. ?
176689


So now back to the fun stuff ? (I do not mean the B&O driver)

The Kicker subwoofer driver next to the B&O:
176692

176690

176691


Preparing the box for the insertion of the Kicker:

You have to cut away some plastic parts for the woofer to fit:
1. The notches that keep the B&O centered, cut away with a utility knife or something else.
2. A little enforcements plastic thingy's (I have no idea how the are called/ named in English)
176693


1. The result should look like this
176694


2. This one is a little tricky, but if you are the proud owner of a multitool and are willingly to sacrifice a saw blade, just bend it so you can let it slide over the bottom of the enclosure
176695

So the result will be a nice clean cut
176696


Time to do some wire magic:

The Kicker has dual 2 Ohm voice coils vs the B&O single 6 Ohm, so we are going to wire it in series to make a single 4 Ohm voice coil
176697


The result in the next post
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
The result of the wiring
176698


I am still thinking of a way to remount the protection grill, if I think of something, I will share it.

Next is just screw it in, mount back in the car, select you music, open up all the gain and be amazed of the 90 euro transformation of your sound system. (I should have made a picture when it was done, forgot it in all my excitement)

It is the best thing I have done yet to the car.:love:
 
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
Something I forgot to mention:

The manual of the Kicker has no given information on vented enclosures for this specific driver. I have closed the vented port of the enclosure with some foam and duct-tape.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Yes it does pack a great punch, allmost like a reverse capwearing 2x 15" subwoofer overloaded Golf 3 GTI teen car,...
My girlfriend allmost jumped through the roof opening it up.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
The sub is then perfect.
Just be carefull when tightning the screws, the plastic is not that thick.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Found the speaker, is the 2x dual coil (comp RT672) preferable to the 1x dual coil (comp RT671)?

More importantly, after switching to 4 om from 6 om, do you get an error message on vagcom?

Also, do you have to remove the battery in order to get the cover out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are not switching from 4 to 6 ohm.
The original sub in mine was 6ohm, so i just wired the dual 3 ohm voice coils to 6ohm.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
View attachment 179978
thanks for the write up. Followed your advice and it sounds loads better now. Only thing I found was that the speaker didn’t seal very well, so I used a cold melt glue gun fill in around. Very happy with the improvement.
Good to hear that I was able to help you!
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Wire the voice coils in series to create an 4 ohm load. Can you post a picture of your subwoofer connections?
Hi John and Rhino,

There is a schematic in the first post how to wire it....

But if you missed it:

Image
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
It is definitely worth the effort and cost to do this mod.

But for the option price of the B&O package, it already should have sounded like this.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Hi guys, sorry to revive this thread but its a really excellent write up. I am looking into a sub upgrade after i upgraded my door speakers and tweeters + added soundproofing to doors, and now the stock sub is not keeping up.

I am considering 3 things: doing exactly this stock sub replacement with the kicker sub, installing an active sub eg. JBL Stage 800BA, or going full out and getting a sub with a separate amp with an enclosure dedicated for the A5 sportback like below.

View attachment 184293

Each option has its pros and cons, costs, performance, space taken up, ease of install.

I am really tempted with the kicker, i would really appreciate if those of you that installed it in your cars gave me a more detailed description of bass improvements to help me make a decision?
Dear Lukasz,

It all depends on you, the Kicker will surprise you!
(Especially combine with Audison Mid Bass speakers in the doors) What’s the type of music you listen, get the crazy look from other drivers at a stop sign, but most of all: have you outgrown the “Backwards Baseball Cap Hoody Golf GTI” stage of your life? You are driving an A5. (No offence here, but after 10 minutes I just could not think of other words that would explain it more clearly.)
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
It rattles your car
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
i think you have me convinced!

I never even sat in a car with a proper 10" or 12" sub so i have nothing to compare against, but i know that i am after quality sound and not how loud it is. I think it should make me happy.

Just out of curiosity, what would happen if the kicker was connected in parallel? technically 2ohms instead of 4ohms means 2x current draw so twice as much power output?
I thought of the same, but there is zero to none documentation on the DSP Amp.

But trust me, I have build showcars for SPL (lets blow out the windshield and ear drums) contests and sound quality (every rattle or strange vibrations/ noise will set you back in points) contests. This works stupidly and surprising well, but I only installed it on Sportbacks.