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Thanks for the post. Here are a couple youtube videos that are also helpful. The Windows adjustment is also shown on the second video.

Door card removal

Window adjustment at 3 min
 

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Hi all,

I changed my regulator but now the gap when you open and close the door is very little.

However when I scroll down the window and lift it back up with the door opened, it stops at the correct height. Then I close and open the door and the window barely goes down.

Do you know why with the door opened the correct gap is in memory but then gets messed up once the door is closed?

Thanks
 

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Hi all,

I changed my regulator but now the gap when you open and close the door is very little.

However when I scroll down the window and lift it back up with the door opened, it stops at the correct height. Then I close and open the door and the window barely goes down.

Do you know why with the door opened the correct gap is in memory but then gets messed up once the door is closed?

Thanks
Hi

Did you find a resolution to this? I have the same issue
 

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Had the car in for an ESP fault today and the mechanic pointed out my passenger window wasn't working - you hit the switch and the motor spins but no movement. He said the regulator was gone and my window was probably going to fall down imminently. Is the lack of movement a symptom of a failed regulator?
 

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So my window regulator went last week, and there isn't a detailed how to that I could find on whats involved in this simple fix. New regulator was £120 from Audi though you also need to order the M8 bolt to hold the back edge of the glass as this isn't part of the kit (I ended up using one I had lying around, as I didn't realise this until I had installed it).

So here goes - this is my first how-to so be gentle with me.

Tools required - T25 torx bit, 13mm socket, trim removal tools, set of allen keys (for adjusting the window after refitting, can't remember what size allen key this was.

1. First the door card needs to be removed. Theres 5 bolts to be removed, 2 of which are hidden by trims. Start by removing the door inlay strip - prise this off from the back edge of the door working forwards. Theres 4 clips which need to be released (by prising gently outwards) then pull it towards the back of the door as it clips under the door handle. The face trim next to the window switch also needs to be removed. Again this prises off, being careful not to damage the face and clips in under the handle. You will now be able to remove all the bolts - the locations are shown in Photo 1.

2. Once the screws are removed, then the door card can be released from the 9 clips which hold it in place. I managed this by simply giving a solid pull on the door pocket in the back corner. All the clips released without damaging any - might be an idea to have some spares though just incase. Once free, you need to disconnect the window switch from the controller (lift the pink tab on the blue plug and pull out. I also removed the door switch from the door card to allow me to raise and lower the window which helps greatly when it comes to adjusting the window later) and the door latch cable from the handle (pull handle, release cable then slide white tab securing the cable away from the handle. Sorry no pics of this, but its pretty straight forward. Once the door card is gone, unplug and remove the speaker.

3. Remove the black rubber panel that the door pull cable disappears into. This just pops out, and you can't snap it so don't be scared if you need to use a little force.

4. The glass needs to come out. This is held in by a bolt in each of the brackets on the runners. The clamp at the front of the window only needs to be slackened, but the rear one the bolt needs to be removed completely as it passes through a hole in the glass. With the window in the fully up position there are 2 holes in the door to allow access to these, as shown in Photo 2. Slacken / remove these bolts and the glass will lift out of the top of the door.

5. The window motor is held on with 3 screw as shown in Photo 3. Remove these and withdraw the motor. Once removed, push the 3 black plugs the motor screwed into through the door. squeeze the clips at the base of the plugs to release

6. The regulator is held on by 4 bolts - 2 on each runner - positions shown in Photo 4 (bottom rear bolt is behind the black plug under the door). Remove these bolts (13mm socket required) and the regulator is now free. It takes a little wiggling, but remove it through the large hole in the door and discard.

7. Refitting is basically the reverse of removal, but be sure that when putting the glass back in that it sits properly within the seal inside the front edge of the door. Before refitting the door card, you need to adjust the window to ensure that it closes properly. This is done using the bolts on the back runner (if you look at the head of the bolt a torx bit fits inside it). To adjust the position of the window against the seal, slacken the top bolt on the rear runner slightly and use the torx bit to adjust the glass. The position of the top of the glass is adjusted by the bottom bolt of the back runner in the same manner. Remember to tighten the bolts and recheck after adjustment. There is no adjustment in the front runner other than height.

8. The height of the window is adjusted using an allen bolt on the bracket holding the glass on each of the runners. Look for this before you install the regulator so that you know what you are looking for. Once installed it sits behind the runner, and each full turn of the bolt anti-clockwise raises the glass up approx 1mm - and clockwise moves it down the same.

The Audi adjustment instructions are provided here also, as are the clearances that they recommend for the final positioning of the window.

Its a really straightforward fix this - it took me around 15 mins to strip the old regulator out and around 25 mins to install the new one due to time taken adjusting and checking.

Hope it helps someone out in fixing this themselves - if I've missed anything then just ask
Hi I've just done this on my A5 this morning the bracket on my new regulator is slightly different so i had to make a plastic washer the torx screw from my old one doesn't seem to fit the front part of the bracket on the regulator had a screw already installed did you have to change it.? great guide.
 

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Hi I've just done this on my A5 this morning the bracket on my new regulator is slightly different so i had to make a plastic washer the torx screw from my old one doesn't seem to fit the front part of the bracket on the regulator had a screw already installed did you have to change it.? great guide.
You need to buy a new M8 bolt. Just one. They cost about £1.
I thought to myself: "Don't be daft, I'll use the one from the old regulator"...it turns out there's been a re-design and the bolt that holds the window on has changed. Luckily the specialist I bought it from said "they're only a quid". For some reason they ordered 2 for me so if you're close to J12 on the M4 I have a spare :D

Anyhow, I fitted mine yesterday and I'm going to pop out and adjust the window gaps right now.

Also I had no issues with the window opening slightly when the door is opened and closing on shutting the door - but I didn't change the motor.

Speaking of which - the regulator cost me £143 but the dealer and the specialist both insisted that I needed a £300+ "kit" including a motor. I just said - no, keep looking, I just want the regulator mechanism and eventually they found it. The part has been redesigned and is the same part number but with a D on the end. My 2009 passenger side was: 8T0 837 461 D if that helps.

The other area I had a problem with was removing the door card. There is a special tool which I think would be worth trying to source. I broke several of the plastic retainers on my door card and although they're repairable it would be better not to break them :/
(It would really pay to study the photo's of the door in the first post to see where the door-card clips are.)
 

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You need to buy a new M8 bolt. Just one. They cost about £1.
I thought to myself: "Don't be daft, I'll use the one from the old regulator"...it turns out there's been a re-design and the bolt that holds the window on has changed. Luckily the specialist I bought it from said "they're only a quid". For some reason they ordered 2 for me so if you're close to J12 on the M4 I have a spare :D

Anyhow, I fitted mine yesterday and I'm going to pop out and adjust the window gaps right now.

Also I had no issues with the window opening slightly when the door is opened and closing on shutting the door - but I didn't change the motor.

Speaking of which - the regulator cost me £143 but the dealer and the specialist both insisted that I needed a £300+ "kit" including a motor. I just said - no, keep looking, I just want the regulator mechanism and eventually they found it. The part has been redesigned and is the same part number but with a D on the end. My 2009 passenger side was: 8T0 837 461 D if that helps.

The other area I had a problem with was removing the door card. There is a special tool which I think would be worth trying to source. I broke several of the plastic retainers on my door card and although they're repairable it would be better not to break them :/
Thanks,
I found a m8 x 25mmbolt with allen key head in Halfords for about 1.80 and used a washer i had already.Was quite an easy fix and plenty of room to work in which makes a change.
 

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I was lucky enough to find a genuine regulator on ebay for 90 quid.I was worried about it being dodgy untill it arrived and it is definitely genuine and brand new all works fine i had to adjust it 5 turns anti clockwise at the front and 3 turns anti clockwise at the back to push the window up to seal properly.
 

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Good find! When I bought the car the driver's regulator failed when I went to pick it up and the seller got it repaired by his garage. Long story involving many trips to get it adjusted to stop wind noise - all of which failed - ended up taking it to a local audi specialist who said that they often had problems with non-genuine bits. Replaced it with a genuine regulator and it was absolutely fine. I figured it was worth getting a genuine one since pattern ones were about £60-70. It really is quite well engineered.
 

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So... the replacement regulator had 2 big metal bits that attach to the glass and the cables.
(Note to the next person who does this - please take a picture of the replacement regulator - sorry I didn't :) )
They sat in the channels in the runners on the left/right
If you look at them 'as fitted' then 'behind' the channel/runner there is an allen bolt (5 or 5.5mm if I recall) that does the height adjustment. This can easily be accessed before replacing the door card. It really helps to look at them before fitting because otherwise they're very hard to 'feel' to figure out how to operate them. It takes quite a bit of turning to have an effect.
If you've replaced it then you can access it using a very long-handled allen key from the front & rear access holes underneath the door blocked with grommets. (The front one is no longer accessible on mine - maybe due to the redesigned regulator?)
 

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Can anyone furnish me with the correct part number for genuine Audi regulator with required bolt please? It's a 2011 model, if that makes any difference ...
 
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