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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So my window regulator went last week, and there isn't a detailed how to that I could find on whats involved in this simple fix. New regulator was £120 from Audi though you also need to order the M8 bolt to hold the back edge of the glass as this isn't part of the kit (I ended up using one I had lying around, as I didn't realise this until I had installed it).

So here goes - this is my first how-to so be gentle with me.

Tools required - T25 torx bit, 13mm socket, trim removal tools, set of allen keys (for adjusting the window after refitting, can't remember what size allen key this was.

1. First the door card needs to be removed. Theres 5 bolts to be removed, 2 of which are hidden by trims. Start by removing the door inlay strip - prise this off from the back edge of the door working forwards. Theres 4 clips which need to be released (by prising gently outwards) then pull it towards the back of the door as it clips under the door handle. The face trim next to the window switch also needs to be removed. Again this prises off, being careful not to damage the face and clips in under the handle. You will now be able to remove all the bolts - the locations are shown in Photo 1.

2. Once the screws are removed, then the door card can be released from the 9 clips which hold it in place. I managed this by simply giving a solid pull on the door pocket in the back corner. All the clips released without damaging any - might be an idea to have some spares though just incase. Once free, you need to disconnect the window switch from the controller (lift the pink tab on the blue plug and pull out. I also removed the door switch from the door card to allow me to raise and lower the window which helps greatly when it comes to adjusting the window later) and the door latch cable from the handle (pull handle, release cable then slide white tab securing the cable away from the handle. Sorry no pics of this, but its pretty straight forward. Once the door card is gone, unplug and remove the speaker.

3. Remove the black rubber panel that the door pull cable disappears into. This just pops out, and you can't snap it so don't be scared if you need to use a little force.

4. The glass needs to come out. This is held in by a bolt in each of the brackets on the runners. The clamp at the front of the window only needs to be slackened, but the rear one the bolt needs to be removed completely as it passes through a hole in the glass. With the window in the fully up position there are 2 holes in the door to allow access to these, as shown in Photo 2. Slacken / remove these bolts and the glass will lift out of the top of the door.

5. The window motor is held on with 3 screw as shown in Photo 3. Remove these and withdraw the motor. Once removed, push the 3 black plugs the motor screwed into through the door. squeeze the clips at the base of the plugs to release

6. The regulator is held on by 4 bolts - 2 on each runner - positions shown in Photo 4 (bottom rear bolt is behind the black plug under the door). Remove these bolts (13mm socket required) and the regulator is now free. It takes a little wiggling, but remove it through the large hole in the door and discard.

7. Refitting is basically the reverse of removal, but be sure that when putting the glass back in that it sits properly within the seal inside the front edge of the door. Before refitting the door card, you need to adjust the window to ensure that it closes properly. This is done using the bolts on the back runner (if you look at the head of the bolt a torx bit fits inside it). To adjust the position of the window against the seal, slacken the top bolt on the rear runner slightly and use the torx bit to adjust the glass. The position of the top of the glass is adjusted by the bottom bolt of the back runner in the same manner. Remember to tighten the bolts and recheck after adjustment. There is no adjustment in the front runner other than height.

8. The height of the window is adjusted using an allen bolt on the bracket holding the glass on each of the runners. Look for this before you install the regulator so that you know what you are looking for. Once installed it sits behind the runner, and each full turn of the bolt anti-clockwise raises the glass up approx 1mm - and clockwise moves it down the same.

The Audi adjustment instructions are provided here also, as are the clearances that they recommend for the final positioning of the window.

Its a really straightforward fix this - it took me around 15 mins to strip the old regulator out and around 25 mins to install the new one due to time taken adjusting and checking.

Hope it helps someone out in fixing this themselves - if I've missed anything then just ask
 

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Got the regulator for £80+shipping, my local independent is fitting it next week for £90. I looked at the instructions to fit it and very quickly decided I was not doing it, some people may think it is an easy job, I would most certainly end up breaking my car!!!
 

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it 'looks' similar to the A4 B6 setup - if so, it shouldnt be too difficult, although the one issue i had with mine was aligning the serrated feet at the bottom of the window into the mechanism.
Perhaps helps to grease the mech lightly as well as spraying some lube onto the frame seal where the glass actually sits.
 

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Now thats how ya do it - easy to follow and good images! For a first tim, thats a good job sir!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
it 'looks' similar to the A4 B6 setup - if so, it shouldnt be too difficult, although the one issue i had with mine was aligning the serrated feet at the bottom of the window into the mechanism.
Perhaps helps to grease the mech lightly as well as spraying some lube onto the frame seal where the glass actually sits.
FLA its much simpler than you would think, the bit that takes the longest is adjusting the glass positioning to get the perfect fit. Serrated feet - is that on the glass unit itself? Its not on the A5, just slots into the brackets and nip up the bolts.

I will admit that mine isn't quite adjusted spot on as the first trip on the motorway produced a bit of wind noise from that window (wasn't there before) the door card is coming off again at the weekend to adjust as I haven't had time to do it yet. If anyone is doing this fix, might be worth a higher speed run before you refit the door card just to be sure you've adjusted properly before putting everything back together.
 

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FLA its much simpler than you would think, the bit that takes the longest is adjusting the glass positioning to get the perfect fit. Serrated feet - is that on the glass unit itself? Its not on the A5, just slots into the brackets and nip up the bolts.

I will admit that mine isn't quite adjusted spot on as the first trip on the motorway produced a bit of wind noise from that window (wasn't there before) the door card is coming off again at the weekend to adjust as I haven't had time to do it yet. If anyone is doing this fix, might be worth a higher speed run before you refit the door card just to be sure you've adjusted properly before putting everything back together.
I thought you can adjust the window with the door card on??
My widow dropped today and i have ordered a recon one off ebay and will be doing the job tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I thought you can adjust the window with the door card on??
My widow dropped today and i have ordered a recon one off ebay and will be doing the job tomorrow.
You can adjust the height (if you have long enough allen keys) with the door card on, and can get to the bottom nut for adjusting the position. But you can't get to the top one.

And unfortunately I don't have a set of long allen keys to do this - so off comes the card again.
 

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I'm in the process of doing it now,the trim is a bit stubborn ??
 

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Just done my A5 window regulator.

Pictures are cut off so I can't see the nuts. But my question is about torx screws. Do you tighten them to 9 Nm and that is it? Also how do I measure height without that special tool?
Thanks to Mr haggis and his simple to follow instructions, replacing it was a doddle. My cable snapped about 2 years ago when I tried to lower my passenger window in the frost!!!!!!!

I bought a window regulator on e-bay for £60 ish just before Christmas and have fitted it tonight without any bother whilst doing an oil change.

Thanks again.
Paul
 

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Hi Mrhaggis I hope don't mind me contacting you, I,ve just read your post regarding replacing regulator I have a similar issue and thought I might ask for some advice. My A5 driver window works perfectly well up/down etc however the issue is wind noise as the setting/alignment seems to be out ever since I opened the door when it was frosty. Now the window setting is slightly low and doesn't meet the seal. I can manually lift the window up as there is now alittle play in the window, however this doesn't last and the window drops back down. Going with your experience I was wondering if you can assist. I,m hoping its not the regulator and it isn't the cables as it operates up and down fine I was wondering if there was any quick fixes to raise the window ?? as I noted that there are two grommets under the bottom of the door which I think I can turn to raise the door ?? do you think this would help ?? Don't really wish to remove the door card as I would proably damage something and I,m reluctant to take to the dealers as they are quiet expensive, realise difficult to provide advice with seeing but any information would help much appreciated Alan.
 

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Hello All,

Passenger side window failed on me with the window jammed halfway up. Audi UK (Hatfield) quoted me £150 just to have a look and diagnose the fault (half hour to remove door trim, one hour to diagnose and a further half hour to re-instate the door trim). They then hinted towards the fault likely being the window regulator and a potential £500 for total replacement. To add salt to the wound the closest appointment, just for the diagnostic was 2 weeks away, with an appointment for actual repair likely to be 2 weeks after that!

Decided to have a look for myself. Thanks to this forum and a bit of youtubing, managed to identify the issue was indeed the window regulator, in particular one of the cables. The cable in question had began to fray inside the plastic gear/pulley that attaches to the window motor. The fray, one or two strands of the galvanized steel, had unwound and completely jammed the channels inside the pulley. Needless to say to elevate the window glass manually to the top, to gain access to the retaining bolts, to remove the glass was an absolute nightmare. The only way I found was to invite friends round for beers and entice one to pull on the glass, one to push from the inside the access panel and me directing them on cue with activating the window switch. Fortunately all other parts that make up the window regulator appeared to be in good working order, so have now ordered a cable replacement kit.

I'm hoping that as all other parts are as the original and I marked the glass location prior to removal, no adjustments will be needed to the window gap widths as this seems rather complicated when reading the available materials - but then again, reading the removal of the window regulator seemed daunting and complicated. Moral of the story so far - don't be scared, read the available information thoroughly, be patient and enjoy the process whilst saving a small fortune :)

Many thanks to All.
 

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Window adjustments

There seems to be some confusions here, so I thought I'd clear up. I've done several window regulator changes on B8's and B8.5's.

The window must be up, and the door card removed for adjustments forward, backward, up and down of the window. There are two small service holes, covered by the smaller rubber covers.

With the door card on, there is one adjustment that can be made, which is the lower rear strut pin. This moves the strut out or in, basically raising, or closing the glass on the top seal. It is best to measure the post position and adjust the new regulator, before you install, though you can adjust once the window in installed.

I hope that helps!
 
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