[Eatpocky]

Is there a proper way to jack up the A5 onto jackstands? I was planning to bleed my brakes yesterday, but I couldn't figure out how to safely jack up the car onto jack stands. Did some research and found we're pretty much limited to the pinch welds (which isn't much room in the first place), and there seems to be scattered information with mixed agreement on what points can and can't be jacked up from.

Research has lead me to:

• Jack up off the LCA, but I see mixed agreement on this
• Use the scissor jack or a smaller jack at the pinch weld, so that you can squeeze in a jack stand. Don't have a small jack and using the scissor jack on all 4 corners seems ridiculous.
• Rear diff, I did this on my WRX and do this with my 4runner. Apparently on the Audi's they're not designed to hold the whole weight of the car???
• Center of rear subframe - yet again, mixed agreement on whether its strong/safe enough to jack the car up from.

Does anyone know if there is a proper way and if there is a centralized point on the front and rear to jack up the whole car?

Thanks!

 

[findalex]

get this u-jack: U-jack from Amazon

best and easiest way without upgrading to quickjack

i got mine from amazon, no leaks, and works perfectly with 3-ton jack stands i got from harbor freight. the new ones with a secondary lock, so it's pretty safe.

 

[Eatpocky]

get this u-jack: U-jack from Amazon

best and easiest way without upgrading to quickjack

i got mine from amazon, no leaks, and works perfectly with 3-ton jack stands i got from harbor freight. the new ones with a secondary lock, so it's pretty safe.

Man that looks pretty cool and handy, but I already got 2 full sets of stands and 2 jacks. Guessing from the lack of responses, there aren't really other ways to lift up the whole car with ease. Might just bite the bullet.

 

[findalex]

I've used the scissor jack, the tiny little floor jacks, plus the jack stands from the front. I've used rear subframe both the sides and the center.

I was never confident about the front since there isn't too much working room. The rear was easy because the big exposed subframe. But I need the car to be raised and level when changing all the ATF/differential fluids.

So finally, after 3 - 4 years of this jack being on the market, I decided to take the plunge. Totally worth it. It takes up some space, but a lot less than a quickjack, and a lot cheaper too!

 

[Critical_mass]

I use the pinch weld but ensure there is padding between it and the jack to protect the underseal. THen stick a stand under the lower arm joints.

 

[Eatpocky]

I've used the scissor jack, the tiny little floor jacks, plus the jack stands from the front. I've used rear subframe both the sides and the center.

I was never confident about the front since there isn't too much working room. The rear was easy because the big exposed subframe. But I need the car to be raised and level when changing all the ATF/differential fluids.

So finally, after 3 - 4 years of this jack being on the market, I decided to take the plunge. Totally worth it. It takes up some space, but a lot less than a quickjack, and a lot cheaper too!

Yea, I might just use the oem scissor jack for now, or see if one of my bottle jacks is short enough to fit under the car and raise it to put a stand on. And if I get fed up with it, I'll pick one up. I agree though, the front is quite bad.

 

[Eatpocky]

I use the pinch weld but ensure there is padding between it and the jack to protect the underseal. THen stick a stand under the lower arm joints.

I guess this is the only way of doing it? I did this as well for my brake bleed, but thought there could be another way...

 

[Critical_mass]

Well mine is lowered so even my low profile jack wont go under the arms. Plus even if i could, id be putting the jack where id want to put the stand anyway. So best place is under the sill.