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Hey all,

My 2011 3.0 is now 10 years old and just hit around 109k. Sadly it’s in the garage at the moment with the somewhat common.. and expensive.. fuel pump failure issue which is getting repaired.

Given the investment to keep it on the road, I’m keen to try to to keep ahead of any now common, or to be expected failures as a result of age or mileage, outside of the expected brake discs, pads, and tires.

So any suggestions of what else is more likely than not to happen over the next 2 years or 40k+ mileages that I might be able to stay ahead of somehow?

DPF blockage seems to be one I should be expecting at some point for example?
 

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I sold my A5 3.0TDi at 10 years old and 115k miles. It was running perfectly at 310bhp! :)

The DPF issues are usually from A) cheap fuel, I used Shell V power and occasionally Millers Diesel plus, B) short journeys or normally the DPF pressure sensors, intake flaps getting stuck closed or an issue with the EGR. I used to give my DPF a 'clean' using forced regen in VCDS (Vag-Com) and you can regen the EGR too with VCDS. I also used DPF cleaner and flushed the DPF with hot water to get rid of residual ash content. Cheap non low ash specific oils can add to DPF issues too. But even after this, you could get rid of the DPF if it's not salvageable. Plenty of tunes that don't smoke!

The inline EGR thermostat can break off in it's housing making it run cool especially in the winter and not warm up properly, further adding to DPF/EGR issues. Not sure which engine is in yours, and if the EGR stat was upgraded as I fitted the upgraded stat to mine.

Change the oil every 8k miles max or every year with good quality oil, it might be expensive at around £70, but this should help keep any timing chain issues at bay, sometimes the oil filled tensioners can give issues.

As you are having the FP replaced, get the fuel filter changed too.

They are a pretty solid engine with few common issues! Regular maintenance and treating the engine well, not racing it when cold should go a long way to keeping it running well.

Wheel bearing can go, but this is a lottery!

The center exhaust clamp can also corrode, cheap and easy to fix and can be swapped with a stainless item to prevent failure.
 

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I echo everything Dave has said.

I change my oil every 5k, to try and avoid any potential timing chain issues down the line, I usually get my oil from opie oils and for £70 and 30 minutes labour and a catch up with my mechanic it's worth it..

Good quality fuel will help avoid dpf issues though I had to grab whatever I could get recently with the 'fuel crisis'



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