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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

Does any one know the specification of gearbox oil to be used?
The car is a 2016 2.0TDI Sportback, CNHA engine, 140kW, 140,000 km on it with the 6-speed Manual 0B1 (front-wheel drive) PJD gearbox

I want to change the gearbox oil because when the oil is cold, its a bit notchy and hard to get into 1st gear.
Whats the most annoying, is that sometimes 1st goes in half way and then pops into place fully when I slip the clutch slightly to get the shafts turning.
If i dont do that, i have to try to put it in 1st gear two times, first try goes in half way, back to neutral, then it pops into 1st on the second try, all while holding my foot on the clutch.

Imagine doing that when the light turns green.

Best case scenario the oil needs changing, worst case, synchros are worn I'm guessing?
After the gearbox oil warms up everything works like a charm and 1st pops into place every time.
So i think the oil just needs a change. But there is no info in the owners manual.
Manual boxes are filled for life apparently. I think its a load of crap unless life = warranty period and a bit more.

Below is my research so far, I looked at websides of different oil brands and their "Find the right oil" tools:

LiquiMoly suggests High Performance Gear Oil (GL4+) SAE 75W-90
This is approved with API GL4+ & Ford ESD-M2C 175-A
Tech sheet: https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000233/4433-HighPerformanceGearOilGL4SAE75W-90-34.0-en.pdf

Fuchs suggests TITAN SINTOFLUID SAE 75W-80
This is approved with API GL5 and some recommendations including VW 501 50 (G 005 000 05/ G 005 000/ G 005 000 20/G 052 911 A1/A2)
Tech sheet: TITAN SINTOFLUID SAE 75W-80 | Automotive lubricants | FUCHS SCHMIERSTOFFE GMBH

Motul suggests MOTYLGEAR 75W-80
This is approved with API GL4 and GL5 & MIL-L-2105D
Tech sheet: https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.n.../Motylgear_2075W-80_20_28GB_29.pdf?1492016030

Castrol suggests Transmax Manual V FE 75W-80 which i think changed its name to SYNTRANS V FE 75W-80
This is approved with API GL-4+ & Audi TL 52532
Tech sheet: https://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/...C6C34D580257E830031962A/$File/BPXE-9ZWH6W.pdf

I also saw a youtube video where a guy filled a manual gearbox of an B8 S4 with an oil just labelled as Transmission Fluid G 052 911 A2 apparently original from Audi. This number is one of the recommended specs on the Fuchs oil so im leaning towards that one.



In case someone uses this thread as info here are some specs:
4.0L gearbox oil capacity
Gearbox oil drain/filler plug 45Nm
Both plugs need a 10mm hex wrench

Looking forward to some recommendations and discussion
Lukasz
 

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Yep manual trans gear oil 75W-80/90. Any good brands will do like Castrol Syntrax, Redline MT90 etc

Your issue sounds like a clutch issue, either worn plate or clutch hydraulics. It could be worn synchros or even low oil.

On my old A4, it used to get stuck in 2nd gear if I stopped in 2nd. Driving and moving and it went into and out of 2nd perfectly, with sometimes a bit of a snatch. Then one day I accelerated in 2nd then lost traction and 2nd gear just grinded. The synchro ring lost all of it teeth on the 2nd gear side. Grinding gears will eventually wear the syncro rings!

I got a new one from Audi and an input bearing as this was sacrificial in getting to the syncro ring and fixed the box for £100. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Dave,

I hope its nothing wrong with the clutch hydraulics, although my clutch pedal does sit a bit higher compared to other pedals.
Other than that, it works fine, doesn't slip under load and I don't grind when shifting.
Even when i have issues putting it into first there is no grinding sound, it just doesn't want to go in all the way.

Grinding gears will eventually wear the syncro rings!
BTW - "Grinding gears" actually is grinding syncro rings. The syncro rings engage together before the gear teeth do.

Anyhow I will change the oil and hope fore the best.
It cant break anything and may help, besides, at 144k km it's about time to change it I think.

Lukasz
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In my case it turned out to be a worn synchro ring unfortunately. I got it replaced when i was replacing the DMF and clutch since the gearbox was out.

Unfortunately again the 2nd gear started making a clunk sound when going in sometimes. I replaced the oil to Millers TRX SYNTH 75W which is a lot thinner when cold, so closer to operating temperature viscosity even when cold, and when the car warms up, its all good, so not the end of the world.

The oil change improved things noticeably, you can try that first.

have a look at my other thread about the same topic for more info
 
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