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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finished stage 1 this weekend, just need to tap the B&o sub signal to feed the LC2i

For anyone that's interested I tapped the #2 position on red 12v fuse block (right side cubby hole) with a tap a fuse. There is also a good earth nut in there for amp.

All the power and acc lines are daisy chained between the amp and lc2i

Amps are layed out on carbon wrapped mdf with all the wires taped down for a clean and tidy install. Foam backed a d mounted the plastic wheel well cover.

I've kept runs of wire short and routed power stuff away from the Rca leads so hopefully noise won't be an issue.

180179
 

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Very neat indeed well done and thanks for showing us!!!
 

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With the LC2i you can add the Audiocontrol remote bass dial- really useful, I use mine all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With the LC2i you can add the Audiocontrol remote bass dial- really useful, I use mine all the time.
I've got one in my ebay cart, wondering how much bass does the B&o system choke off at higher volume levels? My previous sub in my TT was a set and forget affair across all music, do you find yourself adjusting it between songs? Or genre's?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Next question

A) do you remove the stock sub to let bass through hole in parcel shelf?

B) if leaving stock sub in place is it OK to cut the sub wires in the harness (blue-white/yellow-white and hook up the lc2i that way

I'd like to avoid removing parcel shelf if I can

Sub is a sealed pioneer shallow 10" in enclosure running 300rms class D. Enough to punch through to cabin?
 

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I use the bass control all the time both depending on the song and of course switching between radio & media where the mix varies a lot anyway.
You don't need to remove the stock sub & leave a hole in the shelf which would look odd- I left mine there & put a switch on the cable and leave it switched off- so if I need boot space I can take the sub out and switch the stock sub back on temporarially, as I have a ported boxed sub rear facing (under the shelf) and the bass travels throughout the car really well- I put sound deadening everywhere (doors, floors & parcel shelf)- even under the rear seats as it's surprising how much road noise comes in from there too.
The LC2i (spliced to the sub feed as you said) is a really excellent piece of kit & gives you loads of tuning power & options so you can set it up to your sub- have a look at this article, it took me quite a while over a few days to get the sound I wanted:
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use the bass control all the time both depending on the song and of course switching between radio & media where the mix varies a lot anyway.
You don't need to remove the stock sub & leave a hole in the shelf which would look odd- I left mine there & put a switch on the cable and leave it switched off- so if I need boot space I can take the sub out and switch the stock sub back on temporarially, as I have a ported boxed sub rear facing (under the shelf) and the bass travels throughout the car really well- I put sound deadening everywhere (doors, floors & parcel shelf)- even under the rear seats as it's surprising how much road noise comes in from there too.
The LC2i (spliced to the sub feed as you said) is a really excellent piece of kit & gives you loads of tuning power & options so you can set it up to your sub- have a look at this article, it took me quite a while over a few days to get the sound I wanted:
Thanks that will save me alot of time, will nip down to electronics shop and find a suitable 2 pin connector to wire into the subwoofer line.

These 2 wires here correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So got it all running today and in the end I put the powered sub on 40hz duty and reactivated the factory sub. I felt the sound lacking with the factory woofer gone. Mabey once my front Audison 8" are in I may eliminate the factory subwoofer, but for now the 40hz zone is filled in with some deeper louder bass which is what I was after, everything seems to mesh nice. Got a lc2i bass knob on the way as well for boosting when needed. Might try a 45-50hz Crossover next week after listening for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So after a couple of days and getting the bass level sorted, i've noticed my tinnitus flaring up despite this system not being as loud as my previous Audi TT setup running a 8" Shallow Pioneer (sealed) with a 140RMS Class AB amp. I suspect perhaps its the Class D amp, that my ears aren't liking ?, unsure but ive unplugged it all for now and am considering just the stock upgrade in the shelf. Half tempted to trade for my old setup in the TT even.

What is the current recommended 10" to run in the shelf off the stock amp ?

its quite possible with my upgraded 8" audisons in the front and a stock woofer in shelf upgrade may just get the system right for my sensitive ears.
 
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