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:confused: Mate, my instructions never said to remove the engine!
Thanks for the tip! :thumbsup:
HAHA! That is hilarious. I just wanted to say thanks for the write-up. I did it about 2 weeks ago on my S5 I bought myself for Christmas. OMG, the build-up was way worse than what I have seen others post. Definitely, running WAY smoother. Now to get rid of the cylinder 2 misfire. Replaced the plug and swapped the coil to see if it moved. Still there but only at high rpm, so I am guessing time to replace the fuel injector.
 

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I have a 2008 S5 with the magnesium intake manifold. I am at 70,000 miles and decided to do a carbon cleaning.

I know someone who is a mechanic at the local VW dealership and has had training on Audi.
He said he would do the cleaning and started work a couple of weeks ago.
Once the intake manifold was removed he removed the dividers and cleaned the intake ports with brake cleaner. He said this is the exact process VW uses. When he was done the ports still looked like they had not been touched.
I went and bought a media blaster and cleaned them properly with walnut shells.
See images. First picture is of intakes after the supposed VW procedures for carbon cleaning. Second picture is of ports after walnut blasting.
Several days later he came back and did the assembly. (manifold flaps were only wiped down as I was scared to get wallnut shells in the intake manifold and didn’t know how I would clean it out.)

Once everything was back together I was getting random misfires, low fuel rail pressure and manifold flaps stuck open and closed.

The VW tech came back and after investigation found that he had used his electric driver to tighten the manifold bolts and the battery was low and did not provide any torque so I guess the manifold was moving around and loosing vacuum.

After tightening the bolts we were still getting CEL and codes that I cant recall at the moment but I know they included flaps, low fuel rail pressure and random misfires.

He decided to take the manifold back off and check everything again.
This time he noticed that he put the intake port dividers in upside down. This was keeping the intake manifold flaps from cycling fully.
These were put back in properly and reassembled.

Once everyting was back together I was still getting CEL with random misfires and low fuel rail pressure, but no flaps stuck. I was noticing more misfires on cylinder 2 and 4.

My plugs and coil packs are 2 months old but I decided to pull the plugs and change them anyway. Plug in cylinder2 smelled of fuel so I started to suspect leaking injector.

After plug change everything stabilized to only high misfires on cylinder2 and cylinder disable.
I changed plug and coilpack from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1 and still got misfires on cylinder 2 and cylinder disable.
I was also still getting low fuel pressure but this went away after a bit of time.

At this point I decided to install new injectors on cylinders 1-4 myself.

I removed the intake manifold and noticed during this process that the ground bolt for the injectors 1-4 was very loose, The clip that attaches to the top Variable Intake Manifold Runner Motor is broken (note that this motor does cycle properly when vehicle is started). The clip for the flap motor is gnawed up looking I guess from him trying to get it to release.

I replaced the injectors and reassembled.

At this time I am not getting any misfires or any fuel rail pressure codes but now I am getting consistent

Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 1
P2006 - 001 - Stuck Closed
And
Intake Manifold Flap; Bank 2
P2007 - 001 - Stuck Closed

I have looked in basic settings for bank 1 and bank 2 and I can see the position change on bank 1 when I press on the linkage slightly. Bank 2 shows 0 position and does not change when I press on the linkage. I am not sure if this is a proper way to check this.

When I do the output tests and it gets to the portion of these flaps they do not move. They also do not move when the car is started.

Can anyone shed any light on this situation?

I recently completed the carbon clean on my 2011 S5. After putting everything back together I found I was getting the same P2006 and P2007 codes.

After reading about others with the same problem I figured I had an issue with a vacuum hose. I had cracked one of the vacuum lines during the disassembly and thought I had rigged it up well enough to make it work but came to the conclusion that it wasn't working properly so I ordered a new hose from the dealer. After installing it all again I was getting the same fault codes.

After pulling it apart a third time and confirming all the vacuum hoses were good I found the problem.

in the first photo you can see the dividers above the valves. These are not flush with the face of the block.

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IMG_5954.JPG


In the second photo you see that if you just place the lower manifold directly onto the block, the flaps lie just beyond the brass divider. This prevents the flap from swinging down which causes the fault codes.


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In the last photo you can see the proper placement showing the flap on the inside (left) of the brass divider.

The flap needs to be partially opened while you place the manifold onto the block in order for the flap to be in the proper position to open and close without getting blocked by the divider.

175748



Faults are now gone and the S5 is running great! Couldn't have done it without the write up.

Hopefully this prevents some others from running into the same problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
I recently completed the carbon clean on my 2011 S5. After putting everything back together I found I was getting the same P2006 and P2007 codes.

After reading about others with the same problem I figured I had an issue with a vacuum hose. I had cracked one of the vacuum lines during the disassembly and thought I had rigged it up well enough to make it work but came to the conclusion that it wasn't working properly so I ordered a new hose from the dealer. After installing it all again I was getting the same fault codes.

After pulling it apart a third time and confirming all the vacuum hoses were good I found the problem.

in the first photo you can see the dividers above the valves. These are not flush with the face of the block.

In the second photo you see that if you just place the lower manifold directly onto the block, the flaps lie just beyond the brass divider. This prevents the flap from swinging down which causes the fault codes.

In the last photo you can see the proper placement showing the flap on the inside (left) of the brass divider.

The flap needs to be partially opened while you place the manifold onto the block in order for the flap to be in the proper position to open and close without getting blocked by the divider.

Faults are now gone and the S5 is running great! Couldn't have done it without the write up.

Hopefully this prevents some others from running into the same problem.
Glad to hear you got it sorted! I thought I had trouble installing the partitions backward. But it's something worth noting! Thanks for sharing
 

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PDF please...

2008 S5 6-sped with 41k miles. Original owner. :)

Fairly sure my intakes are really nasty from all the idling I've done while maintaining the car without driving it much. Driving it a lot lately and here come the misfire codes...
 

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Discussion Starter #145
PDF please...

2008 S5 6-sped with 41k miles. Original owner. :)

Fairly sure my intakes are really nasty from all the idling I've done while maintaining the car without driving it much. Driving it a lot lately and here come the misfire codes...
PM replied
 

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https://photos.app.goo.gl/mLtCiPArCDAnrAmh8

Check it out! I'm almost done with one set of valves. I've been just going slow taking it apart for a week now. I don't even want to know what it would cost if I accidentally dropped that intake. :unsure:

The HF gravity gun works well with the reservoir stuck hanging from the hood. I just used some vinyl hose to connect both ends.

I knew this day would come. Maybe some of my top-end can come back, I swear this thing used to pull harder to redline.
 

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Discussion Starter #150
https://photos.app.goo.gl/mLtCiPArCDAnrAmh8

Check it out! I'm almost done with one set of valves. I've been just going slow taking it apart for a week now. I don't even want to know what it would cost if I accidentally dropped that intake. :unsure:

The HF gravity gun works well with the reservoir stuck hanging from the hood. I just used some vinyl hose to connect both ends.

I knew this day would come. Maybe some of my top-end can come back, I swear this thing used to pull harder to redline.
That clear hose was a brilliant idea. I had a difficulty telling if I was actually blowing walnuts at times!
 

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That clear hose was a brilliant idea. I had a difficulty telling if I was actually blowing walnuts at times!
It certainly tells me if I'm making progress or if there's a jam.

New photos uploaded tonight. Got six looking like this:

176477


Just a tiny bit of improvement LOL!!

I'm making more progress I think with just compressed air on a curved sprayer than I am with walnut shells now. I'll give it one more whirl tomorrow. I did a lot of manual pickwork for some stubborn stuff. Don't worry I didn't scratch anything. The photos are just overlit so I could see debris.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
I like that you're taking your time. I purchased a new (used) car to drive while I get ready for my 2nd go at carbon cleaning. Unfortunately, the new (used) car is in need of some work to get it ready to take on daily duties!
 

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176487


I got them all looking like this. Walnut shells don't seem to respond well to thick tarry stuff, it's their weakness. So for the last two, after I made sure the valves were shut, I filled the whole thing up with chlorinated solvent. Lectra clean is how I get it since chlorinated brake-kleen is outlawed here in California. it's the can right next to it lol.

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Chlorinated is bad you and me and the world, but it isn't flammable and it doesn't attack plastics. I just lightly covered the opening over, and came back 6 hours later.

None leaked past the valves, of course. they seal perfectly and we'd know if they ever didn't, they would burn immediately and that would be it for the cylinder head.

So end result? I stuck paper towels in to absorb it all and then blew the remainders out. There wasn't much left to walnut blast, and what there was, came out in about 30 seconds. And there you see it now. Not bad!

Much easier!!!!

Dissolve all the oil and tars first, then blast the remainders. Skip the WD40, it only makes it harder.
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Dissolve all the oil and tars first, then blast the remainders. Skip the WD40, it only makes it harder.
Good to know you tried something different to a greater degree of success! I'll do the same as you for my next go at it!
 

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Glad to hear you got it sorted! I thought I had trouble installing the partitions backward. But it's something worth noting! Thanks for sharing
Thanks for all your hard work documenting this :)
Could you please send the guide to sadiqasif1974 at Geemail dot com.
 
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