Audi A5 Forum & Audi S5 Forum banner

121 - 140 of 172 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
Just a word of advice to remove the manifold bolts in the correct sequence and to tighten them to the correct torques and to replace the gaskets.

ELSAWIN:



Tightening sequence for intake manifold

– Tighten bolts for intake manifold in the sequence -1 to 10-.

t Tighten initially to 8 Nm

t Subsequently tighten to 9 Nm and then tighten 90° further
Do you have the tightening sequence and torques for the plastic manifold?

The same question for all other screws or please confirm the information below:


1. Engine Lifting Eyelet to Cylinder Head: 22 Nm

2. Fuel Distributor to Intake Manifold: 25 Nm

3. High Pressure Lines to Fuel Rail: 25 Nm

4. High Pressure Pump: 25 Nm

5. Fuel Supply Line to Fuel Rail: 25 Nm



Just for your information, the carbon build up after ~10k miles from the last cleaning (post #77 )
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #127
Do you have the tightening sequence and torques for the plastic manifold?

The same question for all other screws or please confirm the information below:


1. Engine Lifting Eyelet to Cylinder Head: 22 Nm

2. Fuel Distributor to Intake Manifold: 25 Nm

3. High Pressure Lines to Fuel Rail: 25 Nm

4. High Pressure Pump: 25 Nm

5. Fuel Supply Line to Fuel Rail: 25 Nm
I wish I could confirm but I do not have access to the repair manual. I went with my instincts for torques. Regarding sequence, start in the middle and work your way out (there's a sequence in the DIY you can follow).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Hi,,
For those of you who did this procedure and sent out your fuel injectors for cleaning, I wanted to know if you could recommend a place you sent them too. I think the places near me in IL want $28/ per injector because they are direct injection injectors. Also, I wanted to know if the servicer actually replaced the white teflon sealing ring towards to tip of the injector... which seem to be required to replace properly if the injector ever comes out. If i need to buy 8 o-ring kits and the $150-$200 tool to put the teflon sealing ring on, it may be worth it to just buy all new injectors.
Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I sent mine to Race City Injector in Mooresville, NC. I think they were $25 a piece with a pre-cleaning check, clean & rebuild and post-cleaning check. You get a report giving you all the details as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Hi, i am at the blasting stage but would like to know how to manually crank this engine ( i don't really want to use the push button start to electrically crank it, given fuel pressures, error codes, etc.
Rather than a bolt at the crankshaft pulley there is just a threaded hole as in the picture below from another forum (Audiworld member V10AWD).
Is there a bolt of a particular size, threading, I can screw in there it have something to turn the engine with, or something other way to turn it?
Thanks.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
Discussion Starter #132
Hi, i am at the blasting stage but would like to know how to manually crank this engine ( i don't really want to use the push button start to electrically crank it, given fuel pressures, error codes, etc.
Rather than a bolt at the crankshaft pulley there is just a threaded hole as in the picture below from another forum (Audiworld member V10AWD).
Is there a bolt of a particular size, threading, I can screw in there it have something to turn the engine with, or something other way to turn it?
Thanks.
Try lifting one of the wheels off the ground with the car in gear. Then, rotate the wheel and see if that turns over the engine. If you've got a manual transmission, try it in 6th gear. If that doesn't work, try something like this .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
thanks for the suggestion ES, I'll try to lift up one wheel and turn (I have an automatic), hopefully the all wheel drive mechanisms won't do weird stuff, or if i can figure out what size bolt screws in the crankshaft pulley, I'll post it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
thanks for the suggestion ES, I'll try to lift up one wheel and turn (I have an automatic), hopefully the all wheel drive mechanisms won't do weird stuff, or if i can figure out what size bolt screws in the crankshaft pulley, I'll post it.
I had to resort to just cranking the engine with the key, rather then buy the VAG Socket #T40058 to turn it. I disconnected the wires to both high pressure fuel pumps and removed the really that controls the gas tank fuel pump (which in my A8 is in the trunk by the battery.
I'll post some pic and instructions in the coming week, but I just finished walnut blasting without removing any lower intake manifolds/injectors or any fuel lines going from the high pressure fuel pumps to the rails. Turned out fine, just won't be able to clean those metal intake partitions, but I scraped them off best as i could... I don't think that matters as much as the gunk around the valves. I also opted to not remove the the coolant lines to the manifold adaptor... because I have experienced the plastic just disintegrating when I replaced it a few years ago.
It is 6 inches from the top of the lower intakes to the valves, so I made an appropriate blasting wand.
Anyway, I will replace my valley pan gasket, oil filter housing gaskets, put it all back, make some prayers and start it up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
143 Posts
During the carbon cleaning I have made the biggest mistake in my life... I did not replace the solenoid!

Do I rly have to lift the IM (front part) to replace it now?
 
121 - 140 of 172 Posts
Top