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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Usually Audi paint (Glasurit or Silkens) is very scratch and chip resistant and provides good protection against the elements - like bird droppings, water spots and so on.

On my S5, I have noticed that the clear coat marks very easily - I had a few water spots picked up on the way to work that dried out over the day and it took more that gentle polish to get rid of them. I had two layers of Auto Glym HD wax and the water spots still got through....

I would be interested if anyone else has similar problems/experiences?

There could be a paint defect (too little hardner) or I might be just getting paranoid.


I have just got the CR Spotless De-ionizing filter to do the final rinse with DI water - $389 from Costo - anyone using this filter?
 

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I have the same problem, which shows up on my Phanton Black S5. I live in a hard water area and if you don't get your washing technique right, you are left with water spot marks all over the car. Especially when the sun is beating down on the car, it dries in seconds which is unusual for England!

I have got round this by two bucket washing to get the car clean, rinse, do another quick wash to get rid of the spots and residue, rinse and take it straight into the garage and dry off with waffle weave towels. Finish off with a quick detailer, perfect, this means I don't need any filtration equipment.

We have also been having alot of dust contaminants in the rain, caused by winds coming from the deserts in Africa (so I have been reading on www.detailingworld.com ). Which again is another problem, but proper washing seems leave the car clean without doing any serious work with clay bars etc.

So I don't think the clear coat is a problem. Hope this helps.
 

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I have the same problem, which shows up on my Phanton Black S5. I live in a hard water area and if you don't get your washing technique right, you are left with water spot marks all over the car.
+1

I have the same problem with my Brilliant Black A5. Even though I use the two bucket technique, I don't always have the time or desire to spend hours washing/detailing my car with those final steps (i.e., a second "quick wash" and also finishing off with quick detailer). So, I may look into purchasing that CR Spotless De-ionizing filter that SDS5 mentioned, if it will actually help with the spotting.
 

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+1 here

Sometimes I feel like I could sneeze and damage the paintwork - I also thought Audi paintwork was rather resistant to scratches and dried water marks. However, 1 month of driving around and I've picked up some random marks on the roof (HOW, i have NO idea - nothing has touched it!), and various very light marks around the body.

The detailer I had work on the car managed to buff some of them out, but slowly its picking up more random marks. Could this be considered a defect? Or is the paint on the *5 just far too soft?

Japes
 

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Sounds like the waxes / sealants on your cars isn't doing its job as well. Not that mine is doing amazingly either. I thought the paint on my car was pretty weak being that in 5k miles my front nose is starting to look like swiss cheese.
 

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Sounds like the waxes / sealants on your cars isn't doing its job as well. Not that mine is doing amazingly either. I thought the paint on my car was pretty weak being that in 5k miles my front nose is starting to look like swiss cheese.
Yeah, I'm due for another application of Zaino sealant on my car. (Joshvette will be taking care of that this weekend. :) ) In the few months I've owned the car, I've washed it quite a bit. So, it's quite possible that I may have washed some of the protection off. :rolleyes:

Speaking of Swiss cheese on the nose, I ended up getting a 3M clear bra installed on the front bumper, mirrors, and headlights after around 700 miles (I think). Even after that short amount of time, I had noticed a couple of very minor chips on the front bumper and one on the mirror. So, it gives me some piece of mind knowing that those areas are protected now.

Japes, I know exactly what you mean when you say, "Sometimes I feel like I could sneeze and damage the paintwork."
 

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Yeah, I have zaino on mine as well, but I think that I need a few more coats of z5 to get to the right level.

Also, the clear bra is on the to do list, but first I need to touch up those chip spots, langka, and clear coat.
 

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My car has around 4k on the clock, there's been quiet a few big stones landing on the car and ones that make you wince and wonder if half of the paint has come off! But compared to the Subaru Outback my wife now drives, I think the paint is pretty tough. A stone of the Outback would almost drag the paint along the bodywork it was that soft, but on the S5 it only leaves at small chip. So it could be worse.

I still enjoy cleaning the car, but when that wears off I'll be wishing I'd have gone for Silver instead of Black!

TX let me know what Joshvette recommends you do, if anything.
 

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Guys, a number of you mention water marks... and like you guys, I always felt after washing it I needed to dry it (making swirlies) and then polish it to get rid of swirlies, making it an epic job to get the car looking great.

However, I purchased an ionising filter and it is fantastic (Aquagleam... see my thread on this topic). Coupled with the polish that's on the car and Meguires Gold class car wash, the regular water streams off the car, and as long as I don't allow the car to dry too much whilst washing each section (foam gun and lambswool mit), all I have to do when washed is to rinse it with the pure water and leave it to dry either outside or in the garage and the finish is perferct (and swirl free)... the whole process takes 40mins and I only feel the need to re-wax the car every 6-8 weeks when the water stops 'beading'.

I'd recommend these filters to anyone. I paid £78 for mine here in the UK and may get 15-20 washes out of it, which is £4 a wash!! But I believe it's worth it... next time I will buy the other filter variant wich produces less pure water but last longer
 

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Drying with waffle weave towels by laying them on the car panels doesn't make swirl marks, and only takes 5 minutes to dry. I think it's all down to how much you enjoy washing your car, do you want the expense of purification equipment and spare filters to cut time, or do it the long way and top up regularly with detailing sprays, which will save waxing every couple of months.

It's a nightmare, who has the right answer? Perhaps there isn't one.
 

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Water Spots

I currently have a C6 Corvette and a S5 on order. A couple of tricks I've learned follows.

1) I use the Zaino polish and wax system. Not sure if it is the best or not but I've not seen any thing better.

2) Use the Mr. Clean filter system. It maybe similar to other filters I've seen mentioned. The water sheets off the paint and if it does dry there are no mineral deposits, etc.

3) To avoid swirls or other marks during drying use an electric leaf blower. You can't mark up the paint if you don't touch it. These can be purchased at the home center for very little money - you don't need a super powerful one.

This is just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
 

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http://www.ditec.se/tv/

have a look. (only in swedish though...sorry for that...) im getting mine done on monday. seems to be the best one can get in sweden done by a detailer. at least thats what ive heard. will feedback when its done.

cheers,
/G
 

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I currently have a C6 Corvette and a S5 on order. A couple of tricks I've learned follows.

1) I use the Zaino polish and wax system. Not sure if it is the best or not but I've not seen any thing better.

2) Use the Mr. Clean filter system. It maybe similar to other filters I've seen mentioned. The water sheets off the paint and if it does dry there are no mineral deposits, etc.

3) To avoid swirls or other marks during drying use an electric leaf blower. You can't mark up the paint if you don't touch it. These can be purchased at the home center for very little money - you don't need a super powerful one.

This is just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
That is identical to what I do.
 

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a big line?

tx car guy, what happens when a year or two from now, the rest of the car's paint has weathered, and the areas under the 3m clear bra havent? arent you then going to have a big line demarcating the two different shades of your paint?
 

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tx car guy, what happens when a year or two from now, the rest of the car's paint has weathered, and the areas under the 3m clear bra havent? arent you then going to have a big line demarcating the two different shades of your paint?
That's not going to be an issue for me. I didn't get the clear bra installed on any portion of the hood. (I assume that's what you were referring to when you mentioned a "big line demarcating".)

Mine is only on the front bumper, headlights, and mirrors. And since my car is going to be garaged most of the time (i.e., at work and home), it's not going to be exposed to the elements as much as some other folks' cars might be.
 

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I currently have a C6 Corvette and a S5 on order. A couple of tricks I've learned follows.

1) I use the Zaino polish and wax system. Not sure if it is the best or not but I've not seen any thing better.

2) Use the Mr. Clean filter system. It maybe similar to other filters I've seen mentioned. The water sheets off the paint and if it does dry there are no mineral deposits, etc.

3) To avoid swirls or other marks during drying use an electric leaf blower. You can't mark up the paint if you don't touch it. These can be purchased at the home center for very little money - you don't need a super powerful one.

This is just my opinion, your mileage may vary.
Hi Soon,

I actually use the Mr. Clean filter too, it works really well. I don't even see spots on the glass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Wow, I had no idea other people were getting similar issues with the clear coat. I wonder if its just modern paints?

I have to admit that when I first saw the S5, I noticed that the paint was a bit orange peely, but I did not expect to have issues with durability - now I am thinking of applying one of those protective teflon sealants - anyone done any research on good/bad ones?

Many thanks..
 

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Guys something to keep in mind here is that a paints hardness or softness cannot be determined by it's ability to resist physical damage, ie scratches.

IME most all paints hard and soft scratch and damage very easily, the difference is that when I go to buff out and polish the damage out of the car it is either very difficult requiring multiple passes and various combinations of pads and polishes or it is very easy requiring mainly 1-2 passes with different polishes and pads.

I've seen the hardest paints in the world easy damaged by simply pressing down to hard in the same spots a couple times with a clean MF towel. Acidic water or bird droppings are just as bad as deep scratches. There is no amount of wax that will hold up against the acidic nature of bird bombs, if you keep your car freshly waxed it may help to slow down the process a little, but if you don't remove it immidiately it will eat into your clear coat.

There is no paint that will totally resist scratches,etching and swirls, that is completely up to you, the owner, to be proactive and learn the proper techniques when washing, drying and wiping down your cars.

Josh
 

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tx car guy, what happens when a year or two from now, the rest of the car's paint has weathered, and the areas under the 3m clear bra havent? arent you then going to have a big line demarcating the two different shades of your paint?
Ham, I know what you're thinking, but it just really doesn't work that way....

I've detailed plenty of cars with miles and years on them with clear bras and there's no difference in color as one faded and one not....

The only real difference is once the clear bras is removed the paint under the bras will not be swirled as bad as the paint exposed.

Unless you leave your car in the sun all day and never wash or wax it the paint should not fade or oxidize after 2-3 years, maybe 8-12 years if not cared for but not 2-3 years. Single stage paints are different but we're not talking about those right now....

There has been a case or two when the car was not painted well, or they did not prep the car correctly and it had paint issues soon after and even clear coat failure, but that is not the norm.
 

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Thanks for the great clarification Josh.
 
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