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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hi there,

My first contribution, as a thanks for all the info I've managed to find through the forum :) Today I fitted a tow bar from Westfalia (also OEM-used). Quite the job, especially if you have to find out everything yourselves :D

First thing is to do is fold down the back seats, remove the boot floor, spare wheel, tools and battery cover. Loosen all the boot liners by removing the four chrome hooks and two plastic pins (one on each liner) at the far top of it - against the back seats. Remove the boot lock cover plate by pulling it straight up. Watch out for the boot rubber. Remove the taillights by loosening the square plastic knob, pull them a bit towards you gently and judder lightly to the side to loosen the units from the rubber. Watch out for the short cable...

The rear bumper is hold on by:
- Two M6 screws inside the boot, accessible through the hole below that of the taillight knob.
- Four torx screws and a plastic pin underneath holding the diffusor and
- Six torx screws in the wheel arches (three on each side, see picture one).
- There is a clever mechanism holding the bumper corners, which consist of a vertical torx screw located in the under corner of the taillight cavity (picture two). Turn them totally loose, the screw will not come out but it will undo the locking mechanism. After this it is a matter of pulling the bumber-sides from the wheel arces away and it will click out (also picture one). It gives quite a snap and requires some gentle persuasion. To prevent scratching during removal and installation, applying some tape is recommended ;) Watch out for the PDC cable when taking the bumper off.

Installation of the tow bar is easy, just take out the old frame and place the new one with the supplied bolts. Make sure you align the offset accurately. Tighten these for M10 bolts to 55Nm. The Westfalia kit comes with a complete wire harness and computer. Picture four shows these and the bolts and the connection block. The manual which comes with the kit describes this process quite well, it is also downloadable from their website. Remember to loosen the battery ground before making the final connection to the car.

Now, trace out the hole needed for the hook/elektrics and take it out (picture three). The Euro non-S-line models come with the outline already visible in the molding (picture four). When placing the bumper back, watch out carefully for the corners to slot in the lock-in mechanism, do not force it! Now put everything back in place... Picture five shows the finished result with the tow-knob installed and the electrics down. Happy towing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Thanks, the kit set me back 450 Euro. Installation is roughly half a day's work. At the current shop wages a satisfactory DIY job :) My dealer quoted me for much more than that :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Jonathan,

They are accessible, but you have to remove the units anyhow to gain proper access to the mechanism holding the bumper corners.

I've towed our speedboat trailer (1800 kg) with no problems whatsoever, but I'm talking 2.0TFSI Petrol here.

But the HTD at the dealership, which has to adjust some computer settings, mentioned they had quite a lot of bars fixed on A5's and it are good towing vehicles. He did not mention any problems...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You're welcome,

Nope; the screws are located within the holes in the sheet-metal below the square plastic block which unscrews the light-units. Shine a light in the holes or put a figer in it :) than you will feel a normal M6 nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Indeed the corner locking mechanism is clever but fragile, you need a perfectly fitting Torx key. Don't rush the reassembly and don't be alarmed if a ESP warning comes on after fitting the electrics. This is normal, after the tow-bar coding on the dealers computer or vagcom, this message will disappear and trailer functions become available. Happy towing :autofahrer:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hi Jonathan, sorry for the late reaction but I've been on holiday. With my car it was just plug and play (after coding), did not need to fiddle with the wiring. I know there are special little tools to push pins out of a plug. Lots of used on ISO radio connections etc. You cannot use a wire clamp/tap? See attached picture. Or cut the wire and make a connection behind the plug?

@Olegf; only the electronics in the boot. I have been told the Audi unit is a Westfalia with a Audi sticker on it :)

Greetings from The Netherlands
 

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