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Hi all,

I'm looking at purchasing an A5 2.0 tdi S line. I have a budget of around 5-6k and have seen that I can get a few 2011 models for that. I am aiming for mileage of 100k or below and wondered how people were getting on with cars of this age and mileage? Are they reliable cars? What should I be looking out for when going to see them? (once lock down is over ?)

Also are the tsfi models a good option for a commuter? Are they actually any good on fuel?

I hope this post is okay, any feedback would be great.

Thanks
Ben
 

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Hi, reliability wise the TDi is great. I had a 2010 2.0TDi S-Line Sportback and loved it. I had a wheel bearing and drive shaft bearing during my ownership but the most disappointing thing for me was the gulf between supposed mileage and actual mileage the TDi achieved. Build quality was superb. Prior to that I had an A4 1.9TDi with 150,000mls on it and it was running as good the day I sold it as the day I bought it.
 

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So after owning 2 x TDI's

1. Make sure anything over 70k has had the alternator belt /pulley changed as that's a common fault that I had (£550 at least to repair)
2. The most expensive fault is a rattling flywheel which isn't that expensive on its own but involves around 10hrs of labour so will cost upwards of £2.5k.
3. Front window regulators are a common fault although usually go within the first 30k, mine was fine after getting changed up until 75k.

That's it really mate, great cars but the parts are expensive, even getting 3rd party parts made in the same factory as OEM .

Kind regards in SC.
 

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I think you should know that it sounds strange BUT the 3.0 cars seem to be more economical than the 2.0 cars. The A5 is a great car but is a bit heavy, so the 2.0 litre engines must work quite hard to pull the car along whereas the extra 2 cylinders make the 3.0 car a much more gentle ride requiring less revs and thus less fuel. Especially if you are considering the 4WD versions. Comments please gang......
 

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My previous A5 was a 3.0 tdi Quattro so can only give advice on this model...firstly an amazing drivers car with great fuel economy as Simon said??
I have a clutch and flywheel fitted £1500
Egr valve £500 and then just general wear items.
I’m now driving a 2.0 tdi cvt and loving it.repair bills at the moment are zero??!
Overall a brilliant car you won’t be disappointed.
 

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I currently have a 3.0 TDI and I agree with the comments above, its an economical and reliable car.
The DPF getting full can be an issue if you are not doing motorway miles. The regeneration cycle needs the engine to be over 2000rpm for 20 minutes or so.
 

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I currently have a 3.0 TDI and I agree with the comments above, its an economical and reliable car.
The DPF getting full can be an issue if you are not doing motorway miles. The regeneration cycle needs the engine to be over 2000rpm for 20 minutes or so.
So I was told over 4k for 20mins to generate the heat, it amounted to doing 70mph in 3rd if I remember rightly!

Kind regards in SC.
 

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So I was told over 4k for 20mins to generate the heat, it amounted to doing 70mph in 3rd if I remember rightly!

Kind regards in SC.
This isn't true you simply need to be above 38mph for the active regeneration cycle to initiate. Short journeys don't really kill it, the dpf will last until at least 200k before it becomes blocked with ash and will require cleaning.
 

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This isn't true you simply need to be above 38mph for the active regeneration cycle to initiate. Short journeys don't really kill it, the dpf will last until at least 200k before it becomes blocked with ash and will require cleaning.
Lucky I only had it for 5 years and now have an S5... No more dpf shenanigans

Kind regards in SC.
 

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I too was told by a friendly AA man that I needed to run the engine at 2500 to 3000 rpm for 5 or 10 miles to ensure that the regen completes its cycle, when my diesel van went into protection mode. This seemed to solve the protection mode on and off, but eventually I traced the true source of the problem were the sensors on the DPF. The system has a sensor before and another after the DPF and if the sensors detect a pressure drop of more than X then it assumes that the filter is clogged, thus the power reduction. My INDI guy tested the 2 sensors and changed one (for the Mercedes the replacement sensor cost about 20 Euro) and all is back to full power. Phew!!!
 
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