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Discussion Starter #1
I keep getting emails and PM's regarding 3.0TDI tuning so thought I'd post my build thread here too.
It was already on ASN but I seem to be doing more A5's

14/7/15 - Introduction

Well it’s been a while since selling my Golf ARL. Those that are aware will know it made over 300hp from mixture of custom made parts when no 2260 kits were available.
So the new project car is Audi A4 3.0TDI estate (CCWA engine code) - 240hp model auto (TIP) - I didn't want a manual. The auto box has reported torque limit of 700nm.
Decided on a B8 simply because the early ones suffered from injector failure causing engine damage and they don't come with the 2260 as stock.

Even though the car came with full Audi history the air filter is in a poor state looks like they've changed only the oil and filter the last few times.
First action plan is to service it soon and ask my cousin @ teamspb to give it a detail.

Here are some pics




Good news I don't think anyone has been in there


The famous 2260



Inside



15/7/15 – Read attempt

I had some time yesterday so attempted to read the ecu, but failed to get a read out.
Further digging has shown that software 0006 is boot mode only - basically ecu out job on the bench.

I'll tackle that on the weekend.



Fixed the Fuel cap motor wasn't locking (common problem so worth trying a bit of cleaner first) and the rear wiper jets weren't working.

20/7/15 – Boot mode & service

Carried out some more work on the car this weekend.
Removed the ecu and using a heat gun, blade and patience removed the bonded cover:







Got a successful read of all memories in case I ever need to clone the ecu :)

Next job service (air, fuel and pollen)



Detailed

Yesterday got my cousin from (teamspb) to do the detail on the car :)





This week I'll prepare a stage 1 tune (with egr off) and see what it does - I've unlocked the ECU for obd tuning so will make revision uploading easier.

17/8/15 – Air box butterfly, Stage 1 tune & DPF pipe

Removed the air box butterfly



Also, started work on the tune.
For stage 1 I want to keep stock hardware including DPF and just remove EGR from software.

Even with the correct damos file this sofware it's not a easy task over 20k labels.
I was being limited to 620nm torq limit - but finding the limiter for this has resolved this issue.
Anyways after many revisions (all over boot mode) the MAF (hfm) is maxed out and remains flat lined after 3.5k :)
EGR is off via software

Nice punch in the midrange with healthy IQ of 86mg

It’s nice to see the fuel pump is keeping and there is no pressure drop so far.



For stage 2 (DPF off) I will replace the MAP sensor with a 4 bar unit and change the tune for a maf delete (this will not be an easy job and will require many hours in calibrating fuel)

I will book a dyno slot this week and see what it does.

DPF delete will be with me soon :)





22/8/15 – Stage 1 dyno

Made it to the dyno today



Stock car with stock map:



Stage 1 tune with stock hardware (inc dpf):
313hp 650nm



Pleased with the result

Just a shame I went on such a hot day. My air charge temp were showing 80deg on the dyno runs. I need to confirm at what temp does the torque limiter kick in.
More digging into the map tomorrow.

Next fit the 3" dpf delete pipe, remove the egr and maybe the maf.

24/8/15 – DPF removed

Removed the DPF pipe yesterday and fitted the 3" delete pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Impressive fit.







Performs much better during low and mid-range rpm now.

Still need to perform some logging to see if the N75 requires a tweak as the dpf restriction has been removed.
There is zero smoke which is great.

After logging I will establish if there is any scope for more fuel.

1/9/15 – S4 brakes, wheel bearing & 4 bar map sensor

Last week had to replace my front right wheel bearing, there was no play in the wheel and the outer bearing appeared fine.
On removal the rear bearing was running dry.

The bearing was seized inside the hub carrier and even broke my sliding hammer.

Managed to remove it though:



S4 Brake upgrade

Managed to get my hands on a full Audi S4 set up

345mm front

330mm Rears (vented)

Pads looked in good shape so I made use of them and changed the brake fluid out for some ATE 200.



Stock rears:



S4 rears:



Front’s:



4bar map sensor

On the tuning side I've mounted a 4 bar map sensor now and will try more boost to see if 700nm can be cracked.



5/9/15 – Stage 2 (dpf off) dyno

Went for a second power run today
Peak power hasn't increased as expected (turbo cannot flow any more air top end) however nice healthy increase in torque and power is holding much better now.

317hp 720nm



Here you can see the difference between stage 1 and 2



Again air charge temp hit 86deg.

16/9/15 Wagner intercooler (competition)

Excellent quality item - Mark @ Wagner has opened me an account so can get these at discounted price if required.




Hopefully get this fitted on the weekend and then exhaust

19/9/15

Intercooler fitted & pressure drop test performed

Take off adaptor made for inlet manifold



For the turbo compressor side got a 57mm pipe, drilled a hole and fitted a M8 nut & bolt with a hole in the centre. Then in the map made some changes to the dpf delta P sensor so that it be used for pressure drop testing.

Intercooler

Stock Vs Wanger:



Rubbish behind the old intercooler:

Shocked how well it was working with this behind it



Mounted
Modified the mounting to get more threads on the bolt



Stock intercooler (and pipework) produced 226 mbar pressure drop
Wagner intercooler (and pipework) produced peak pressure drop of 210mabr

Throughout the rpm range the wagner produced less pressure drop generally - good news for the turbo.

I will now test with different pipe work to see if i can bring the pressure drop further down.

On temp side the difference is outstanding - peak temp showed 19 deg @ 4600rpm - impressive

While I was in a testing mode I monitored the exhaust back pressure and peak figure of 130mbar was seen, meaning I don't expect much of a power increase from the exhaust.

27/9/15 - Egr and Swirl flaps delete

It's been something that I wanted to do for a while, but I couldn't find any information on the internet about deleting the egr cooler - I didn't know what to expect.

EGR cooler removed :

Note the lower intakes which houses the swirl flaps also need to be removed



Here you can see the space generated:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
EGR cooler:





Once removed I noticed the Cooler was plumbed into the block:



I could think of one solutiuon and that was to hack the egr cooler for the OEM fitting (at this point I really hoped my idea would work):





Worked well:



Cleaned up the lower intake:



Removed the swirl flaps:



Note the following bushes must be inserted back into the intake to support the rubber gasket





Made a EGR blanking plate for monitoring EMP



Looks like this now:



I need to re work the breather pipe which will make a little more space around the turbo

For now I have some DTC to kill :)


4/10/15

Managed to remove all DTC's now so no more MIL
Done EMP test and recorded 3.8bar peak
Its near double of boost so pushing any further on this set up is a no go at the top end.

Exhaust order has been placed.

I've also noticed since doing the EGR cooler delete my water temp only gets to 90deg in town driving.
I will need to re use the coolant inline thermostat which was on the stock set up.

10/10/15 - Inline coolant regulator

So since removing the EGR cooler the coolant temp has been dropping to low as 50deg when on the motorway.

This regulator use to be mounted on the EGR cooler:



So from the egr cooler I cut out the mounting and also cut the 16mm pipe coupler to weld together.



But the internal bore size is alot bigger on the regulator mounting:



Ended up using a reducing 90 and it worked a treat



17/11/15

Updated the lighting on the car from Aurora Bulbs (great service). Fog light, interior bulbs, boot, and reverse.

63mm intercooler pipe (turbo to intercooler)

First getting the stock (50mm pipe) out is a pain - I ended up cutting it at muffler:

I wanted to see what was inside any how





After some cutting I had a rough design:



 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
However, the 63mm pipe was too big for the Wagner silicone hose. There was a section in the hose that accepted 57mm, so ended up with this:



Tapped some threads and fitted a NPT nipple to measure pressure drop rather than using a hose with a hole.

The silicone hose which i used is very close to the exhaust manifold so have ordered some heat wrap and will need to fit a support bracket to hold the pipe up.

In other news my exhaust is ready
Great quality item - custom made 3" with V band connections and ear friendly big mufflers.

]





2/12/15 - 3" Exhaust fitted

Well I fitted the 3" exhaust during the weekend and to be honest it looks great and sounds great. But I'm not sure I can live with it.
I'm basically doing a lot of miles and I always wanted a stealth but fast car.

It does look good:



As for performance well its the best I've seen with zero back pressure at 4.6k rpm and only 45mbar in the midrange.
Im sure its old age but I want my car to be silent. So I'll be fitting the standard system back which was giving me 130mbar still not so bad as the 2260 has to deal with at least 500 to 600mbar with the dpf.

In the future if I find the back pressure is too high then maybe I'll fit a active exhaust valve.

I've also now found the limit of the CP4.2 pump - I can get 97mg in the mid range with 81mg @ 4k before rail pressure becomes a issue.
Still smoke free which is great - time for another dyno i think.


December 2015 - Bosch CP3

Christmas break fun..

Next task was to source a fuel pump that would be able to supply enough fuel without causing rail pressure drop.
After considering different Bosch pumps - I went with Bosch CP3. The pump is fitted to some early V6 models.
I managed to get all the required parts from a car that was being broken. Pump, gear, bracket, belt etc



Got M12 adapters for the fuel lines:




With some luck the bracket mounted nicely, but I had a issue with finding a gear that would keep the belt tight





All mounted up but the M12 90deg was a little tall



Ended up purchasing OEM feed and return



Finally got the CP3 working after some more tweaking in the tune.
Now I can inject close to 100mg in the mid range without rail pressure drop :)
The first generation of V6 that used the CP3 pump only had 0.5 bar feed pressure so with 4bar feed pressure we have a excellent start.

Big Turbo

Well I knew it would be only a matter of time before I fitted a bigger turbo.
So it all came together in the Christmas / new year break.
To be honest I had the turbo before I had even purchased the car. It was a nice unit and when it came up for sale I just had to have it.

The turbo itself started is a borg warner John Deere s200v. As stock the turbine is really healthy as 56mm ex but only 44.5mm ind compressor wheel. Lucky for me the unit came modified with a 70/51mm CW. The compressor housing also came with anti surge modification already done.

Turbo pictures







Parts collection - Oil return, feed, compressor housing outlet, flange, V bands etc





The green cable is the turbo speed sensor

S200 Vs 2260 compressor housing



Fitting

Turbo unit removed



Custom oil return



Custom oil feed

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Modified 3" downpipe



Modified the Y collector and welded the S200 flange directly to it.
Y collector also housed the EGT probe (cut the boss from a broken 2260) and emp adaptor.

The actuator set up was a very fiddle job - getting the angle and throw correct in relation to the turbo lever took a lot of hours.

But finally a VCDS output test could be done with no errors

Ignore the TIP it was something just to get the car running.



After deleting the EGR cooler water pump, temp sensor and rad outlet sensor I noticed the lambda sensor wasn't behaving itself.
Turns out the rad outlet sensor is used some how to make the lambda sensor to function.

That meant I had to plumb the sensor back in.



Heat protection



Bi Turbo MAF

As the stock MAF sensor was maxed out at 900kg/h the options were map based smoke limiter (time consuming to get right) or bigger MAF.
For a cleaner tune decided to go with the A6 Bi turbo MAF rated upto 1400kg/h so nice improvement over stock.

The housing is bigger over stock so custom 90mm TIP was needed, but on a plus note the MAF fitted the stock air filter perfectly.



Looks pretty good



Dyno result



420hp / 830nm
As you can see the power is still going up at 4k but egt was already 900deg so kept it safe.
Maybe more rail pressure next.


Smoke video


February 2016 - Turbo Speed sensor

As the s200 has a default speed sensor it would be crazy not to make use of it.
According to BW they say no more than 152k rpm.
Looking on the turbo shaft there is a flat area which would mean 1 pulse per turn - confirmed by using a scope.

I decided to use the EGR input as in VCDS there is a raw voltage display. After some testing on the egr i found the ground, 12v and the input.
Using a input signal from my phone @ 2.5khz i calibrated the voltage shown in vcds to 4.5v which is approx 150k rpm.

Here are some pictures of the home made pulse to voltage convertor

Melted the OEM EGR plug to expose the pins:










End result shows the turbo has rpm of approx 145k so still some more scope left :)

I've also calibrated the voltage so the coil light flashes when we get overspin - I've been trying to get the car to limp with a certain voltage/shaft speed is seen, but this is more difficult that expected.


February 2016 - Exhaust manifold pressure sensor & Rail sensor

Its been on the to do list to add an EMP sensor that can measure more than the stock deltap sensor, managed to source a 6 bar sensor from a Renault.
However, they don't sell just the plug on its own so plumbed the wires directly and fitted superseal connector.



Now tuning spool is easier with emp:boost logging

As the injector limit has been reached causing high egt's after 4k, the workaround is increased rail pressure - currently the M12 stock sensor does not read more than 2000bar.
It turns out the rail end has bung that can be removed for M18 rail pressure sensor and sealing surface is perfect:





Target is 2200 bar rail pressure and then back to dyno

March 2016 - Dyno

2200bar rail pressure and more fuel:



Smoke video



April 2016 - Exhaust tips

I had the exhaust tips made so the bore goes over the stock back box pipe around 50mm. The tips are around 100mm so they fill the hole nicely.

End result:




April - Santa Pod 12.4 @ 111mph




Took Class J :)

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Here are some video's:

Note this run was done with a 2.8k take off and this results in 4.5secs to 60 with a 3k take off I have seen
4.1 secs so I feel this time can be improved upon.
Also, the run was done with full weight, half tank of fuel so around 1.8 tons I would say.


Incar


June 2016

Replaced the front disc's & pads. Rear discs were still good but pads needed replacing:



July 2016

Decided to turn up the rail pressure, not as clean as the before but still acceptable. Estimated power is 465hp / 930nm.
Went to GTI International on the weekend and managed 12.1 @ 113.8 mph.
High 11's would have been nice however my air charge temp was at 52 deg by the second run. Sitting in the queue wasn't helping so settled 12.1 and enjoyed the show.



Here is a video:


Logs suggest:

0 - 60 4.2s
0 - 100 9.3s
0 - 120 13.9

August 2016

So after messing about with a number of different aerials for my retrofit DAB radio install I decided to go down the oem route.

Purchased the kit from


Audi very kindly cut of the dab signal from the rear 1/4 glass so it's just case of connecting the 3 wires and running the supplied cable to the dab unit.

My signal is now perfect - finally :)








April/March 2017

Not much to report - but I've covered approx 25k on the S200 without issues.
Done a service and changed the gearbox oil

Gearbox service kit











Even though ZF give you 7 litres of oil I could only get in approx 4.2litre which was about the same I took out so have plenty left over.


In other news managed to source another S200 :)



June 2017
Macan Big brakes

Added TTRS wheel vents & Modified my fog grills



Managed to source Macan turbo brake set up (front, rear, pads, discs and lines)

Fronts - 360 x 36
Rears - 355 x 28



To keep the OEM look they were professionally painted black by Adrian From Project Paint (Cardiff) [email protected] - Totally recommended.

Soda Blasted and epoxy primed









Sourced Macan hub carriers for oem style install



Other side was bought from main dealer at cheaper than expected price which was good news

On to the install (what a nightmare)

First the top suspension arm pinch bolt was completely siezed - tried many methods to pull this bolt out but in the end one of the lugs broke as I tried to wind the thread out.
Out came the angle grinder :)
(I was changing the carrier's anyway)



Then my next problem was trying to remove the lower (rear) suspension arm from the carrier. Again this was completely stuck in the steel bush - in fact the ball joint bent under the force that my spliter put on but it still wouldn't move.
So again I just cut this out to save time (it was ruined anyway).

 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
First test fit:



At this stage I tried my stock wheels but they would not clear the calipers (ET47)

Carried on with the install and discovered the Macan carriers have a M14 ball joint and my old ruined ones were M12 (both have 65mm bush)
In fact all Audi's made from November 2009 have M14 arms

TRW arms:



The back plate was trimmed to provide heat protection for abs sensor, ball joints, track rod end only

Backs were a direct fit:





Coming back to the wheels - I decided on a set of S line alloys from an Audi A5.
Benefits:

Same look as the A4 wheels
ET29 off set
8.5J rather than 8J
15mm clearance (from caliper)
No spacers required
OEM wheel bolts






Brake feel like OEM but work very well its a very impressive set up.
To aid cooling I've added Macan air baffle plates, I've ordered some braided line which will go on soon.



Hybrid testing time....
So my turbo guy sent me a hybrid to test. Objective was to see what power is possible with 'decent' compressor wheel and turbine in the stock 2260vk...not the usual AMG turbine.

Removed the S200, fitted a gutted dpf unit, stock exhaust - PCV behind the headlight haha



Results:

426hp / 870nm



Looking at the log I had a lot of torq correction based on egt's due to the hot weather so on a colder day I would expect better power

Nice daily unit with great response.

July 2017

Still using the hybrid unit but will have a version 2 hybrid to test soon
Braid lines have been installed and the braking is very powerful now.

Suspension wise I had one of the rear springs break on me recently so I put in H&R springs but the ride quality has been poor.



Looked ok though:





I've now got the Eibach Pro kit in







The ride quality is now perfect. The car does sit higher compared with the H&R's but thats ok.

From the ground to the arch I made the following measurements:

H&R's - Front & Rear - 655mm
Eibachs - Front - 666mm - Rear - 663mm

As you can see even though both kits are 30mm there is a difference in height.

On the engine side I've installed some high flow injectors - details of which I will not be releasing but they are working very well with 100deg egt cooler for same amount of fuel.
And I've installed version 2 2260 hybrid with a larger compressor wheel - Hopefully I can get on to the dyno soon.

October 2017

Went farming today haha


 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
December 2017

First internal engine modification - uprated valve springs. What a nasty job this was but had to be done in preparation for my future plans.

Objective was to install springs to ensure valves remain closed (without removing heads):






Ended up breaking the yellow guide off for timing chain from the RHS - German ebay saved the day though :)




Its always nice to hear the engine start after major works

Engine rev's much nicer in the top end now - Im convinced there was valve bounce previously.

December 2017

Rear wiper motor

It seems like another common problem rear wiper motor leaking and ruining the inside of the motor making it run continuously:

Managed to locate a Valeo branded (oem)






January 2018 505hp / 980nm

Well guys managed to hit my target of 500hp

So what’s changed? As you know my s200v has been put up for sale to make way for unique turbo.
EFR7670 with S300v housing :) its a watercooled roller bearing turbo with really nice wheels -

CW:76/57
TW: 70/61, gamma-Ti alloy, lower density (and thus inertia) than conventional Inconel alloys



I've been driving for approx a month tuning it and trying to get it right for a power run. Its been task to balance spool Vs surge - for example more spool is possible but then get surge so the short term workaround is to run less boost. Long term would be to leak off some air via ECU controlled valve.
So yes it does have lag but it still have same torque as a stock 3.0tdi @ 2.2k in its current form.

Dyno

We turned up on a BMW day ;)









Smoke test Video:

captured by Jay

The turbo is really a monster and still has more scope, but I'm out of fuel. I guess with larger injectors 550hp would be on the cards.

EGT's - 900deg
Stock engine (apart from valvesprings)
Stock exhaust apart from downpipe
Stock gearbox
No smoke

Feburary 2018

I know apart from the dyno you guy haven't seen or heard about any times from the car.
But I pulled a 9.7 seconds from 100 to 200
Previously was 11.3 - nice improvement.

April 2018

Been a while but been busy on other projects.
I had a issue with a leak on the oil return line rubbing on a bolt:



So decided on a banjo fitting @ 30deg which gave me perfect clearance with new a -10 hose





Also, BW do a compressor housing which according to the compressor map had less surge so this was installed at the sametime:



On a side note these are the best clamps I have ever come across - they apply fixed torque regardless of temperature changes.





So far the results are very good I can demand more torq low down without going into surge :)

Plenty air available top end.

Next little project will be to measure cylinder pressures
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
July 2018

PCP findings are interesting, lets just say its amazing the heads are still on :)


Cleaned out the intank fuel pump:





When 4 bar map sensor is no longer enough - 6 bar sensor fitted.
The probe is 18mm and the plastic hard pipe does not have enough material to drill it out.





September 2018
Nothing new to report but now have covered 10k on the new the turbo set up.
Done some more testing with a couple of new gearbox tunes:

0 - 60 - best i can get is 4.2s (same as before)
0 - 100 has improved 8.7secs (previously was around 9.3s)
All timed with VCDS @ 20hz

Looking at the 0 to 100 I would say high 11's is on the cards. Just need to find the time to do a few runs

September 2018

For the last few months I've been getting chain rattle on start up.
Didn't think much of it as it cleared pretty quickly.
However, before things got worse I thought I'd take a gamble and change the tensioners and guides on both banks before taking the engine out to do all the chains etc.

Febi chain kit (oem)


RHS bank


LHS bank


Wearing:



The old tensioners appear to be leaking/not holding pressure until the engine oil pressure was enough.
Covered approx 500 miles and no rattle so far.

Worth doing these first I suggest if anyone gets the same issue.

October 2018

Santa Pod trip

Well finally made it to Santa pod yesterday. Waited for 4 hours for the track to dry out, the queue was unbelieve considering it was a non event day.
Was hoping for more runs but someone fell off a bike :(





Done 11.9 which I'm happy about, but I think there is more to be had, why?:

1) 20mph head wind
2) Car hooped (then bogged down) for some reason (maybe too much boost at take off) - see incar clip
3) Gear change from 1 to 2 took 1.1second, Rest took ~300ms
4) In the past my 60ft was around 1.7s but this time 1.9

Better gearbox software will help for sure (come on xHP)

Still pretty decent for a true daily driver - drove there and back, no smoke, just diesel and air etc


February 2019

More information for others that may experience this.
For a while know I've been getting a vibration under my seat, had the wheels balanced but didn't help.
In the end I took a look at the prop shaft and could see oscillation marks on the rubber.



I bought a replacement center support bearing



I tried for many hours to split the center joint but gave up. Took it to Prop Shaft services in Heathrow who tried for a few hours and also gave up.

In the end got a replacement shaft (used), new one is 1.2k.

Hammer time

Off course got to find out why this damm thing wouldn't split:

Cut the prop shaft:



Joint exposed:



CV puller:



Applied plenty force that the bar started to bend:



Out came the angle grinder:





As you can see no tapering on the spline so they really want you to spend the 1.2k
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
June 2019

Haven't had much of a chance to work on my own car recently.
Changed the front and rear pads and discs.
Decided on EBC yellow stuff front and rear pads.
Front disc managed to source some EBC and rear's from ATE.







Air box mod done - OEM+ look :)



(Before everyone starts drilling their air boxes take some pressure measurements as 99% of the owns won't need this)

I'm also working on something special in the background ;)
More details to follow in the next couple of months (I hope)

July 2019

Been fours since the last car detail - special thanks to my cousin @teamspb for all his effort:











For a car with over 150k on the clock he done a great job.

January 2020

Been a while since I've done much with the car.
Some maybe aware but I bought a used engine last year with ojective to rebuild it. As I mentioned earlier in this thread the PCP are extermely high and main task I wanted to address is compression ratio. With such high pressures the heads have started to lift when using the power for prolong periods causing coolant issues. The car has 160k on it and still being driven and still performs well.

Here are some pictures of the replacement engine:





Nice to see cross bore drilling:



Heads cleaned & flattened



Valves reseated



12.9 head bolts sourced and modified to suit the Audi V6 engines



Piston work







CAD drawings are complete with CNC profile set.
If all goes to plan lowered compression ratio will add scope for more power while remaining within PCP.



 

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Discussion Starter #11
Bigger CP3 pump

The new pump will take some doing to mount and line up correctly but should be possible - approx 20% more fuel than the current R90



To be continued...

March 2020

Some progress on the replacement engine.

Pistons all cleaned up:



Machined:







Piston installed with fresh rings:



New guides, new chains, new gears etc



Heads installed with upgraded head bolts



Next task is to get the larger cp3 mounted for a mock up

May 2020

Not much to report slow progress however new custom injectors arrived and decided to go with cast manifolds. I've not had any issues with the stainless manifolds as I run low egt's, but I rather not risk the turbo if I push things a little further.







Part numbers for the manifolds are:

059253034P
059253033P
059131789N

As you can see they fit the stock 2260 Y collector perfectly



June & July 2020

Well the new engine finally made it in but not without a fight. Engine swaps on these cars is a big job and I wouldn't want to do it again in a hurry.

Front end off:




Old engine finally out:




Used this opportunity to repair my engine loom with another 3.0TDI wiring harness



Vanes all cleaned out


Swapping parts over


Nasty boost leak found too (repaired this and provided better support - see below)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All new mounts:
Passenger side (middle in the picture) mount was worn pretty bad


Starter motor located in the most painful location and this yellow rubber seal can be a struggle to get into place:

So to change the starter one would have to remove the front end off and remove the engine mount.

New engine finally in:


New heat shield made up to protect the intercooler pipe


Well ran the engine for around 30miles and after rerouting pipework I decided to wash the engine down. Took it for another drive and got oil level sensor fault ummm. Looked after the dip and the oil wasn't right - yep water in the oil.
Removed the oil and coolant from the engine fitted the level sensor from the old engine - put 7 litres of oil and measured 51mm on the level - added water and noticed the oil level increased opps. At the same time, I noticed the Vee area was getting wet.

Stripped down the whole vee area and ordered every new gasket and seal for the base plate and decided to use parts from original engine as they had no issues etc:







Old gasket rusted through



New seals:



New support bracket





Touch wood engine appears to fine again.



July 2020

Well with the engine in and running plenty of time has been spent on getting the duration map calibrated correctly.After which I have been chasing my tail for weeks trying to workout why my rail pressure is no longer stable (bad osolation) and rail pressure low events for example it would dip for 0.5s with injecting 100mg and again after 4.5k.

Check the feed pressure and it was showing 10 bar plus - light bulb moment :)

10 bar plus


Freed up the fuel pressure relief valve and got a stable 6 bar this fixed the osolation issue but still kept getting these low pressure events.

6 bar


Changed the HPFP back to the R90 - same issue
Changed the PCV same issue
Changed the rail (in case the seat was bad - same issue
At this point started to think maybe one of the injectors are leaking off too much fuel and causing the dips in Rail Pressure.

As a last hope I swapped out the metering unit and now rail pressure tracks perfectly - This is at 100ms sample rate.

In other news as I plan to keep the car I've invested in this kit for car play:





Install to follow...

Aug 2020

Installed the Unique Auto kit and be honest I didn't like it:
1) MMI2G display is low res so the car play didn't look right
2) Using Car Play meant in the background you were controlling the Nav and sometime it would be in a mess if you returned back to it
3) Reverse camera didn't work for me very well wasn't getting CAN siganl when reverse was selected

So in the end found a guy who did the whole MMI3G Plus upgrade - new 2020 Nav maps, better display, dab radio, 60gb hdd, 2 x sd slots, Bluetooth streaming (all oem):





Old MMI2G High:


Next is AMI cable to the glovebox and OEM reverse camera

Costco's had a really good deal on tyres so went for some Michelin PS4



Armed with new tyres I went for a quick test, seems the wheels still spin at 60mph:


Current engine power is unknown but seems to going well :)

Sept 2020

Cluster software updated to show oil temp:



 

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Discussion Starter #13
Got myself a Turbo Speed Gauge - https://www.borgwarner.com/docs/def...technologies/turbo-speed-gauge-guidelines.pdf


Need to make a suitable pod for it and I’m hoping I can configure the input voltage for my 6 bar map sensor. Also, has a nice voltage output so can log turbo speed.
Got a glovebox and foot well lighting from @RobinA3 https://rocketwires.co.uk/ totally recommended

October 2020

Been working closely with a developer that does cylinder pressure monitoring and using the Beru PSG it seems I've maxed that out at 230bar. Now looking at a pro solution used by OEM's for a sensor that can read more and comes correctly calibrated - more to follow on this...

In the meantime opened an account with Bilsten and ordered a B16 kit with wifi/bluetooth ride control, for quick access it comes with a button which can be used to toggle between comfort, sport and sport +

Here are some pictures:







Controller mounted behind the glove box



Fronts wired via the inner arch loom



Sports button






New top mounts





Rears wired



After driving these around I would totally recommend them, in comfort mode the suspension is like a SE model and Sports is harder than stock S line and sport plus is for track, but again you can adjust the presets to how you like it.
I need to increaase the height as Im not a fan of cars too low but I will tweak the suspension in a week or so once it settles down.

Really happy the way this has turned out - the handling and ride quality is the best I've experienced for a car that's lowered.


November 2020

Not much has changed, but Im getting issues with the hpfp so revert back to the R90 item and started some mods on that (more to follow).
Rear camera is now working:



First timed run on the new engine and its showing promising results - I don't know of any other 3.0tdi doing the 100 to 200 any quicker with full weight.
Things to note are this was the only single test I managed
Gear change into 5th seems to show a dip in acceleration - should be fixable
Full weight with 60l of diesel in the tank



December 2020

Gave the car to my cousin from TeamSPB who also runs a car detailing business called "Reflective Detail".
Main objective was to make a custom gauge pod for the turbo shaft speed, however while he had it he asked if I needed it back in a rush...I replied with a nervious no.
But wow he gave me a amazing surprise with a level of detail I've only read about. Im not really sure which combo of pads, wax, sealant etc he used but the job is the best I've seen.

Gauge pod:

 

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Goodness, WHAT an amazing read thanks Bobby. Amazing stuff.
 
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Bobby you sound like another Ed China??????
 
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