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Discussion Starter #1
Ive got a twin 12s box in the back of a A5 Coupe

The bass rattles are tremendous, all from the back, maybe its the shelf, So ive ordered some dynamat

Any tips on reducing the bass rattles, what did you do and how?
 

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I had the deck out a few times whilst wrestling with this problem until I ended up with this solution which has worked:

When you take the (Coupe) rear deck out you should consider putting Silent coat (or Dynomat) onto all the metal areas of both top & undersides, folded back under the hole for the stock Sub, and at the same time try to stop the main culprit which is the vibrating cardboard top deck - cutting some anti-vibration matting to fit underneath the cardboard top shelf is a very good option- even just having it laid on top of the deck before I got round to fitting it for a couple of weeks worked really well: Draper Vibration Absorber Mat 30743.
I added a separate bass amp via a (LOC) line output converter (LC2i) and powered a boxed & ported matching 12" Sub from there, leaving the B&O deck-sub disconnected so as not to conflict- I put an in-line switch on the underside of the deck so when the boxed sub is taken out of the boot the stock sub can be switched back on- to avoid an open circuit and give stock bass in the meantime.
Adding the anti- vibration matting was well worthwhile.
I also fitted the separate bass remote control from the LC2i into the centre console, which I use all the time.
I put silent coat on the floor underneath the back seat on the underside of the lifting boot floor and inside all the door cavities when I replaced the speakers and wound some thin wiring cloth tape onto the rear seat catches.
Having now upgradeded all the B&O speakers (apart from the tweeters which are fine) the overall results, & especially the bass, are simply fantastic- way beyond my expectations- with zero distortion, interference or rattles at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had the deck out a few times whilst wrestling with this problem until I ended up with this solution which has worked:

When you take the (Coupe) rear deck out you should consider putting Silent coat (or Dynomat) onto all the metal areas of both top & undersides, folded back under the hole for the stock Sub, and at the same time try to stop the main culprit which is the vibrating cardboard top deck - cutting some anti-vibration matting to fit underneath the cardboard top shelf is a very good option- even just having it laid on top of the deck before I got round to fitting it for a couple of weeks worked really well: Draper Vibration Absorber Mat 30743.
I added a separate bass amp via a (LOC) line output converter (LC2i) and powered a boxed & ported matching 12" Sub from there, leaving the B&O deck-sub disconnected so as not to conflict- I put an in-line switch on the underside of the deck so when the boxed sub is taken out of the boot the stock sub can be switched back on- to avoid an open circuit and give stock bass in the meantime.
Adding the anti- vibration matting was well worthwhile.
I also fitted the separate bass remote control from the LC2i into the centre console, which I use all the time.
I put silent coat on the floor underneath the back seat on the underside of the lifting boot floor and inside all the door cavities when I replaced the speakers and wound some thin wiring cloth tape onto the rear seat catches.
Having now upgradeded all the B&O speakers (apart from the tweeters which are fine) the overall results, & especially the bass, are simply fantastic- way beyond my expectations- with zero distortion, interference or rattles at all.



ooof, thats some hefty work.

So far Ive bought the sound deadening layers just for the rear deck, im gonna deaden the metal panel top and bottom, also apply some felt tape on the rear cardboard deck contact points, when it rests on the metal panel.

I want to some how remove the stock sub, or disconnect it, so its not in use during music time

I wont remove the door cards as that way beyond my expertise, though i would love to remove the stock speakers and put some c5s in, I think the B&O stock door speakers are ok, better than some factory systems ive heard.

The only speaker i can change is the centre dash speaker, 3 inch one, as thats a simple remove, plug n play, did u change your centre dash speaker, if so to which?

Also are you amping your door speakers or using the stock amp?


You know I go to this shop call car concepts, last year they tapped in to the bass subwoofer wires and connected a LOC, just a standard one, so my 12s can get a signal via rca

I visited them last week and asked if they can tap into my door speakers, mids and high so i can connect a 2nd amp. i said do you know what a LC2i is, they never heard of it haha

got it booked in 2moorow as im gonna add 2 6.5" components in a small enclosure and stuff it under the seats
 

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Well, you have to remove the rear deck (a bit of a pain) anyway and then its just a case of adding the anti-vibration matting after the sound deadening before you put it back on. You can access the underside without removing anything and I spliced into the sub feed cable and fed the cable to the underside at the same time as the top deck was off so you can fit a rocker switch to isolate it on the underside for easy access which is better than just disconnecting or removing it and not worth replacing if you have a boxed sub in the boot..
If you want to replace the door speakers you have to remove the front cards and just enough of the rears (which rare more of a pain) to get enough access for the sound deadening & speaker removal- which also need mounting adaptors on front doors and as I later discovered, different ones on the rears..
I used the stock wiring and B&O amp which is excellent.
The rear seat just pulls off and when it was off I noticed how much road noise was coming through which is why I covered the floor which took 10 mins- super easy.
I swapped out the centre dash for the Crutchfields recommended one here- as I was in USA over Xmas I bought a pair so I'm selling the spare (on here & eBay)- it's made a massive improvement in my view and a simple straight swap:
KENWOOD eXceleron SPEAKER KFC-X2C
High quality mid-range single speaker 2.75"
Brand new in Box bought in USA as not available in UK,
Custom Fit Speaker- also suitable for Audi, Toyota, Chevrolet, Dodge
4 Ohm / 50 W RMS
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, you have to remove the rear deck (a bit of a pain) anyway and then its just a case of adding the anti-vibration matting after the sound deadening before you put it back on. You can access the underside without removing anything and I spliced into the sub feed cable and fed the cable to the underside at the same time as the top deck was off so you can fit a rocker switch to isolate it on the underside for easy access which is better than just disconnecting or removing it and not worth replacing if you have a boxed sub in the boot..
If you want to replace the door speakers you have to remove the front cards and just enough of the rears (which rare more of a pain) to get enough access for the sound deadening & speaker removal- which also need mounting adaptors on front doors and as I later discovered, different ones on the rears..
I used the stock wiring and B&O amp which is excellent.
The rear seat just pulls off and when it was off I noticed how much road noise was coming through which is why I covered the floor which took 10 mins- super easy.
I swapped out the centre dash for the Crutchfields recommended one here- as I was in USA over Xmas I bought a pair so I'm selling the spare (on here & eBay)- it's made a massive improvement in my view and a simple straight swap:
KENWOOD eXceleron SPEAKER KFC-X2C
High quality mid-range single speaker 2.75"
Brand new in Box bought in USA as not available in UK,
Custom Fit Speaker- also suitable for Audi, Toyota, Chevrolet, Dodge
4 Ohm / 50 W RMS

aah I see, so when you put sound deading under the seat did this make a noise improvement?, what did you use, the adhesive stuff?

Also that mid speaker, is it plug n play, so i remove the top dash and remove stock speaker and just screw in the new one? also its the henley on thames one right?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, you have to remove the rear deck (a bit of a pain) anyway and then its just a case of adding the anti-vibration matting after the sound deadening before you put it back on. You can access the underside without removing anything and I spliced into the sub feed cable and fed the cable to the underside at the same time as the top deck was off so you can fit a rocker switch to isolate it on the underside for easy access which is better than just disconnecting or removing it and not worth replacing if you have a boxed sub in the boot..
If you want to replace the door speakers you have to remove the front cards and just enough of the rears (which rare more of a pain) to get enough access for the sound deadening & speaker removal- which also need mounting adaptors on front doors and as I later discovered, different ones on the rears..
I used the stock wiring and B&O amp which is excellent.
The rear seat just pulls off and when it was off I noticed how much road noise was coming through which is why I covered the floor which took 10 mins- super easy.
I swapped out the centre dash for the Crutchfields recommended one here- as I was in USA over Xmas I bought a pair so I'm selling the spare (on here & eBay)- it's made a massive improvement in my view and a simple straight swap:
KENWOOD eXceleron SPEAKER KFC-X2C
High quality mid-range single speaker 2.75"
Brand new in Box bought in USA as not available in UK,
Custom Fit Speaker- also suitable for Audi, Toyota, Chevrolet, Dodge
4 Ohm / 50 W RMS

nice one, just bought it on the bay, i matched the words on the listing so i new it was yours, "also suitable for Audi, Toyota, Chevrolet, Dodge"

Im not gonna change the door speakers as its beyond my expertise, how much did the labour cost you for doing yours?

I realise that the rear shelf alone causes incredible rattle, even with the stock sub, I turned the bass down on the B&O MMI and only use the bass from the 12s in the box

But this also causes rattle, so today I dropped off the car in Car Concepts Aylesbury

They will tap into the front door speakers, adding the additional 6.5" components will hopefully give me some more mids

Yes i will do the sound deadening under the seats, cause the back seats pop out easy right, then i can add the stuff you did on your car
 

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Yes, you bought my dash speaker- its as you describe to fit, (carefully) pop off the grill then unscrew the 2 x torx screws with an angled adaptor (as your tight under the windscreen), remove the stock speaker, cut the cables (blue strip is negative) then use a connector block onto the new speaker cables which comes with a spade connected crossover that I also cut off- screw back in to the holes which line up & just fit which is great, and click the grill back in- I also used some felt cable tape around the underside of the grill to stop any rattles too.
I did all the speakers & deadening myself so it wasn't expensive to upgrade at all.
I don't recommend turning all the bass off the MMI to cut out the stock sub as that will affect the mids as well, so I'd just isolate it instead at the feed cable- ideally with a switch, so when you take out the boxed sub it can be switched back on, but remains disconnected the rest of the time.
I used 'Silent Coat' sound deadening sheets that are peel away sticky backed squares- but when you pull up the rear seats it usually breaks the 2 white plastic push-in blocks under the front of the bench seat that you just replace from Audi for a couple of quid- I got an extra couple of spares just in case when I bought mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yes, you bought my dash speaker- its as you describe to fit, (carefully) pop off the grill then unscrew the 2 x torx screws with an angled adaptor (as your tight under the windscreen), remove the stock speaker, cut the cables (blue strip is negative) then use a connector block onto the new speaker cables which comes with a spade connected crossover that I also cut off- screw back in to the holes which line up & just fit which is great, and click the grill back in- I also used some felt cable tape around the underside of the grill to stop any rattles too.
I did all the speakers & deadening myself so it wasn't expensive to upgrade at all.
I don't recommend turning all the bass off the MMI to cut out the stock sub as that will affect the mids as well, so I'd just isolate it instead at the feed cable- ideally with a switch, so when you take out the boxed sub it can be switched back on, but remains disconnected the rest of the time.
I used 'Silent Coat' sound deadening sheets that are peel away sticky backed squares- but when you pull up the rear seats it usually breaks the 2 white plastic push-in blocks under the front of the bench seat that you just replace from Audi for a couple of quid- I got an extra couple of spares just in case when I bought mine.
oh i see, so ill cut off the cross over from the dash speaker then, I wonder why the kenwood has a crossover as its only one speaker....i think its optional thats why its on there, did u test it?

Yes i think im gonna isolate the stock sub as it affects the mids, i didnt think of that, ha now i need to buy a in-line switch rocker switch

the 2 white plastic push-in blocks under the front of the bench seat, what do they look like, do i have to go to a dealership to get them? do u have a link anywhere so i can buy on the bay or somthing?

Ive already bought the adhesive sound deading stuff, Ive got 24 large sheets so should be enough

I had a look at your car, very nice indeed, clearly your a mechanic or are highly skilled at automobiles, i wish i had that knowledge...
 

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Ebay item:
2pc Audi Rear Seat Fixing Point Grommet Clip Fastener A4 A5 A6 Skoda 4L0886373

I'm no mechanic, nothing I've done is complicated, but thanks for the compliment.. I just love my car!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ebay item:
2pc Audi Rear Seat Fixing Point Grommet Clip Fastener A4 A5 A6 Skoda 4L0886373

I'm no mechanic, nothing I've done is complicated, but thanks for the compliment.. I just love my car!

thanks ordered 2 for £3 quid, ive taken out the rear shelf, very carefully, followed a guide on here, didnt break any clips, made it way more difficult as the back seats is space restricted on a coupe, it will be easier to place back in

Anyways, the rattle is gone, some of it came from the boot light, so i felt taped it, also ordered a inline switch so the factory subwoofer can be switched off.

Will work on the rest in a few days, oh i did notice the back shelf speakers, i bet they are 4 inch and compatible with the kenwoods you sold....
 
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