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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Gents,

Well, This became a mountain but its mostly done now!

I stripped my rear shelf so I could remove the awful stock subwoofer. I spoke to some boys on Toids Audio and ordered a Ground Zero Sub 700w 10"
And I got myself a 1000W Vibe audio amp.

So here's the shelf after I used DoDo matt to seal it. I will be matting the underside too for extra deadening.

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so after this was done I tested it running off the stock amplifier. I est about 100w ish coming through the stock sub. ether way was insane if you want to just get a better bass this is great on its own without an amp. But I want to use an amp so I can set the stock door subs low and the rear sub do all the work.


So that's with the stock amp.

Anyway, I mounted the new amp to the back of the old amp!
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I will be finishing tomorrow and updating this thread with the final results!
 

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That would be good. I have a rattle from the sub when loud and big base so I am thinking of sound matting for the rear shelf and whilst there I may as well put in a better sub. Not sure I'd want to add a different amp though.
 

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I have done similar thing yesterday, took around 5h to get everything out and reassemble. The sub doesnt fit perfectly so you need to get something to seal it around the shelf, so a lot of contortioning is involved 😂
In my case I was replacing b&o sub and tbh the difference isn't huge so amp will be definately coming in the future, but it does improve bass at higher level.
Btw how did you wire in your amp? Where did you take the audio signal from and remove for it?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Okay so all wired up. I did the following

I got my Input from the old sub cables. The White/Yellow was my Positive. And I think the other wire was Brown/Yellow and was my ground.
I took these into the High-Level Input of my AMP and on my AMP I don't need to use a signal wire to turn it on it can detect via the High-Level Input.

I Wired my subwoofer in parallel as it had 2 voice coils. And then connected them to the output of my AMP

I grounded the AMP to my Chassie and I ran a Positive from the car bat with an inline fuse.

And that's as exciting as it gets gents. My sub did leave a tiny gap but I used my sound deadening to seal it.

Here is my result......

Right, so issues are the sub doesn't do anything without bass boost up high on the amp.... Something ain't right I will figure it out.
Eamonn suggested the LPF Low Pass Filter and even playing with this ether gives me tiny bass or horrible distortion.

I will consult the wizards on Audi A5 - Subwoofer Upgrade

To see if they can help me. But we will get there I'm sure
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update

After lots of time messing about etc I had these issues



1. Rattles!
2. Amp was not making any bass unless max settings on the amp
3. Sub shakes the shelf to bits.......

So obviously I will now have to add a baffle to the sub to space it and make it have a more solid connection to my shelf.
I have since been to an audio place and he said I need a Line Output Converter to make the stock sub inputs readable by my amp. after doing this we have decent bass! it is well over the top trust me you don't need 700w you would be fine with 200w I just wanted to make sure I had enough in case of not enough power to make bass. I dialed mine back to 200w max and this is plenty!

Some pics so far. Don't judge this as the final product I have a lot of sound deadening and probably shelf reinforcements so I left it all in a prototype state. but you can get an idea for it


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So you can see its not bad nice OEM can't even see it unless you look.

Also attached is a crude pdf of how I wired things.....

The only thing apart from deadening and reinforcing the shelf. would be to tune the amp a bit more....
 

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Great job, I'm looking at the amp now for mine as I'm getting only tiny improvement from b&o, but if I will add the amp I dont want to be spending tons of cash on it, so thinking about the micro class d from vibe that has been used by several people, where did you get your converter from? As some of the ones I was looking at are costing more that the bloody amp itself 😭
 

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Did the same, vibe 10" 1050w & the Vibe powerbox400.1m-v7
Brilliant little amp as like yours doesn't need a remote wire & has high level input, mounted mine on an mdf baffle board & dynamated whole shelf


Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
 
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