Thanks very much for this valuable guide, great!!! Pictures please.
After removing the remote wire from the white wire it cleared everything that appeared on the dashI have used the white wire with no issues, 2012 3.0 tdi coupe, maybe you're fault is elsewhere
HiAfter researching the internet through and through looking on how to do this I found that it was all but ‘secretive’ what wires to tap into and what is the easiest way to do this. Please bare in mind everything I’ve done is on a UK model.
I must say that I’m no audio technician or mechanic but have basic knowledge on wiring and love giving things a go. I did it my way with trial and ‘little’ error and have an awesome fully functioning 12” sub with Bass Remote.
I didn’t want to replace the original B&O sub because frankly I didn’t want to because:
1. Didn’t want to be playing about it in an awkward space.
2. Didn’t want a massive sub hanging down from the top of my boot
3. I wanted to run the original B&O sub with my new 12” one.
The set up I used:
Pioneer TS-A300D4 12" Inch 30cm 1500 WATTS Dual Voice Car Sub Bass Subwoofer
PIONEER GM-D9701 2400 WATT CLASS D MONO CAR AMPLIFIER INCLUDES BASS CONTROLLER
Vibe LOC2-V5 Car Stereo High to Low 2 Channel Speaker to RCA Converter
AUDI A5 COUPE F5 16+ NEW STEALTH SUB SPEAKER ENCLOSURE BOX SOUND BASS CAR AUDIO
Vibe VSAWK4 4 AWG 2000 Watt Complete 4 Gauge Car Amplifier Amp Sub Wiring Kit
I decided to stick to Pioneer because I’ve had a lot of there products over the years and never had any problems and find it amazing quality. I chose the Vibe LOC2-V5 because again a well known brand but it presences an audio signal and then generate a +12V output that can be used to turn on an aftermarket amplifier meaning no running a remote wire which I’ll get too soon. I chose this amp because he was well reviewed and comes with a bass controller which I wired from the boot into the centre console so when I’m cruising on my own I can turn the dial to max and be in my own little world, but if I have passengers I can turn it down so we’re not battling the sub trying to talk to one another. The enclosure was custom made by Visual Ice (Find them on Facebook) very professional company answered and did everything I asked for. I know this isn’t a cheap set up and with previous cars I did it on the cheap but I spent a lot of time saving for my A5 I wanted to do it properly.
Everything is located in the boot on the left side behind the enclosure all attached to the wires with the massive pink/black plug on it. Because of the built in auto sense you don’t have to connect into 12V or Remote.
There are only 4 wires you have to tap into with your Vibe Loc-V5 which are the + and - of the left and right rear speakers which colours are:
Left Rear + Red/Violet (RV)
Left Rear - Brown/Violet (BV)
Right Rear + White/Green (WG)
Right Rear - Blue/Green (BG)
On the Loc2-V5 connect:
White to RV
White/Black to BV
Grey to WG
Grey/Black to BG
And Black to the Grounding Point.
Anything after this, it is no different to installing any other sub from 12v power cable running from the battery (in boot) with an inline fuse to the amp. Grounding point in the boot leading to the amp and run the RCA cables from the LOC2-V5 to the input on the amp. Many many YouTube step by step tutorials for this type of thing.
I had every thing wired on the left side fed to the rear seats with cables hidden underneath the seats leading to the right side leading to my inclosure box on the right side in the cubby hole.
I like to feel that I’m completely honest and as stated earlier I’m no Audio Technician and came across problems which I’d like to mention to help you guys avoid the same problems.
- Do not tap into the main Red/White wire for a 12v supply. This is why I recommend the LOC2-V5 with auto sense. I tapped into it which caused my car to start and run fine but wouldn’t turn it off! Key out, locked it, even disconnected the battery and just kept running; it was biblical mate! Only way I could stop it was to pull the 40amp fuse out of the fuse board! Just a heads up. Took out the wire I tapped in and was all fine again.
- There is a white wire that is twisted with a black wire which is an Ignition Live (Just the White). There are forums I found that have recommended this to which I can confirm is correct information! Only issue is when I tapped into them it brought up an ESP Fault, Tire Pressure Fault and Brake Malfunction Warning. None of which where the case but the car thought it was. This is why I recommend the auto sense converter saves the time and worry. Again I took out the wire I tapped into drove it down the road and it cleared all faults.
To someone in the game these are probably very stupid mistakes and must think I’m some kind of Wally but for a 12+ supply and a remote wire I had to try it, I just don’t want people making the same pointless cuts I did, learn from my mistakes and you’ll be absolutely fine.
I hope this had helped clarify a few things!
Photos will be uploaded soon.