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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I know a few people in these forums have done this, and after plucking up the courage it was actually really easy to do. There's plenty of other posts detailing the VCDS codes that are apparent when the G395 sensor is faulty, so I won't repeat that here.

Tools Required :-
  • VCDS Cable
  • T-30 Torx screwdriver
  • 24mm crowfoot spanner (see below for a picture)
  • 3/8"extension bar
  • 3/8" ratchet

Parts required:-
  • G395 sensor (Part number 4H0 959 126 B) - See Note at the bottom

Here's how.

  1. At the very front of the engine bay, remove the 4 Torx30 screws from the plastic trim piece that covers the gap between the grill and the radiator,and goes the full width of the car. SEE PICTURE BELOW
  2. The plastic cover piece then just slides towards the back of the car and lifts off.
  3. You'll then see the G395 sensor mounted on the front of the radiator on the left hand side of the car (right hand side as you look at it). Might be on the opposite side on a RHD car, but I don't think it is. SEE PICTURE BELOW
  4. Unplug the connector from the top of it by squeezing the locking tab in and pulling upwards.
  5. You can then use the crowfoot spanner and extension to remove the sensor without having to remove any further bodywork on the car. It connects to a Schrader type valve (like a car tyre valve) so you will hear a very small hiss when you remove it, but you'll only lose a very tiny amount of gas, so it won't cause a problem.
  6. Screw the new sensor back on, and then tighten with the spanner and plug the connector back in.
  7. You'll then need to use your VCDS cable to reset the fault codes under the HVAC. I'm not positive that this step is essential to it working again, but I did it anyway as it's a good way to check that the fault code doesn't come back,and that you have solved the problem.
  8. When refitting the plastic trim piece the front edge of it slots into 4 slots in the grill, and then it locates itself over 3 little grey plastic nibs that stick up through holes in the front of the plastic trim piece. Obviously then just screw the 4 screws back in.

Note: I'm sure the official process is to remove the front grill and get at it that way, or maybe using a long 24mm socket would do the job (a standard 24mm socket is no good as the connector at the top is too big). I used a crowfoot spanner, 3/8" 3" long extension bar and ratchet, and it was incredibly easy. SEE PICTURE BELOW

Note: The original part on my car was a 4H0959126. I understood that this had been superseded by an updated part 4H0959126A which I bought as an OEM part for just under £30 from a motor factor on ebay. This did not work. I then went to my local audi garage and the parts guy said that there was an even newer version out 4H0959126B. I bought this genuine part (for £65.27 inc VAT) and it worked perfectly.
 

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Just wanted to bump and thank you for this post! I have the same fault code and found this via google so will definitely be giving this a go myself. Good work!
 

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I am trying to replace my sensor using this procedure but these are the screws on the cover, which dont unscrew, they just keep turning.

Any idea how to undo these?

I dont know why its added the photo upside down? :wall:
 

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Nice one OP. I had to do the same to mine a few months ago.

Supposedly there is a workshop note out for the original sensor. Apparently the sensor fails (pressure membrane perhaps?) and the gas leaks through the sensor. Hence why they superseded the sensor with a new design. I had to change the sensor, and after changing the sensor, I couldn't turn on the air con (Red AC light wouldn't light up upon button press). Re-gas and it worked fine. So failure mode seems to hold true at least for me!


As for GStyle, why are your screws different? Are you sure you're looking at the right ones? The ones you pictured can be removed if you apply a bit of upwards pressure, say with a blunt knife underneath, then unscrew as normal. Careful not to slip if using a knife! :)
 

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I have no idea why they are different, seems everything on this car is different to everyone else's :laugh:

Anyway, it was that hot yesterday and i was in a rush to fix it so I ended up breaking two of the screws which let me lift the cover up and I managed to replace the sensor so at least it is working again, I just need to replace the screws now.

I did try using a screwdriver with upwards pressure while unscrewing but the screws just turned round and round without coming up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I am trying to replace my sensor using this procedure but these are the screws on the cover, which dont unscrew, they just keep turning.

Any idea how to undo these?

I dont know why its added the photo upside down? :wall:
That doesn't look like the right screw to me. There's a photo in the OP showing the correct ones circled. Can you send a photo of what you are trying to undo (zoomed out so I can work out where it is on the car) so I can check. Don't want you fighting to undo the wrong thing :)

Having said that, a couple of the screws on mine just spun as well. The guy who put them on before me must have over-tightened them (easily done, to be fair, once you see how flimsy the threads on the screws are). Just pry them up slightly with a screwdriver or pull on the plastic gently. Once they come up a few mm past the buggered part they will bite and come out OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Nice one OP. I had to do the same to mine a few months ago.

Supposedly there is a workshop note out for the original sensor. Apparently the sensor fails (pressure membrane perhaps?) and the gas leaks through the sensor. Hence why they superseded the sensor with a new design. I had to change the sensor, and after changing the sensor, I couldn't turn on the air con (Red AC light wouldn't light up upon button press). Re-gas and it worked fine. So failure mode seems to hold true at least for me!


As for GStyle, why are your screws different? Are you sure you're looking at the right ones? The ones you pictured can be removed if you apply a bit of upwards pressure, say with a blunt knife underneath, then unscrew as normal. Careful not to slip if using a knife! :)
Yeah, I saw that workshop note too. Mine didn't need a re-gas, strangely (had it checked). The sensor had just failed, without leaking, but I understand that the sensor leaking is a common fault.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have no idea why they are different, seems everything on this car is different to everyone else's :laugh:

Anyway, it was that hot yesterday and i was in a rush to fix it so I ended up breaking two of the screws which let me lift the cover up and I managed to replace the sensor so at least it is working again, I just need to replace the screws now.

I did try using a screwdriver with upwards pressure while unscrewing but the screws just turned round and round without coming up.
Nice one! Screws should be cheap to buy from local audi dealer. They have pictures of all the parts and where they go, so it's easy to get the right bit.
 

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Hi, I know a few people in these forums have done this, and after plucking up the courage it was actually really easy to do. There's plenty of other posts detailing the VCDS codes that are apparent when the G395 sensor is faulty, so I won't repeat that here.

Tools Required :-
  • VCDS Cable
  • T-30 Torx screwdriver
  • 24mm crowfoot spanner (see below for a picture)
  • 3/8"extension bar
  • 3/8" ratchet
Parts required:-
  • G395 sensor (Part number 4H0 959 126 B) - See Note at the bottom
Here's how.

  1. At the very front of the engine bay, remove the 4 Torx30 screws from the plastic trim piece that covers the gap between the grill and the radiator,and goes the full width of the car. SEE PICTURE BELOW
  2. The plastic cover piece then just slides towards the back of the car and lifts off.
  3. You'll then see the G395 sensor mounted on the front of the radiator on the left hand side of the car (right hand side as you look at it). Might be on the opposite side on a RHD car, but I don't think it is. SEE PICTURE BELOW
  4. Unplug the connector from the top of it by squeezing the locking tab in and pulling upwards.
  5. You can then use the crowfoot spanner and extension to remove the sensor without having to remove any further bodywork on the car. It connects to a Schrader type valve (like a car tyre valve) so you will hear a very small hiss when you remove it, but you'll only lose a very tiny amount of gas, so it won't cause a problem.
  6. Screw the new sensor back on, and then tighten with the spanner and plug the connector back in.
  7. You'll then need to use your VCDS cable to reset the fault codes under the HVAC. I'm not positive that this step is essential to it working again, but I did it anyway as it's a good way to check that the fault code doesn't come back,and that you have solved the problem.
  8. When refitting the plastic trim piece the front edge of it slots into 4 slots in the grill, and then it locates itself over 3 little grey plastic nibs that stick up through holes in the front of the plastic trim piece. Obviously then just screw the 4 screws back in.
Note: I'm sure the official process is to remove the front grill and get at it that way, or maybe using a long 24mm socket would do the job (a standard 24mm socket is no good as the connector at the top is too big). I used a crowfoot spanner, 3/8" 3" long extension bar and ratchet, and it was incredibly easy. SEE PICTURE BELOW

Note: The original part on my car was a 4H0959126. I understood that this had been superseded by an updated part 4H0959126A which I bought as an OEM part for just under £30 from a motor factor on ebay. This did not work. I then went to my local audi garage and the parts guy said that there was an even newer version out 4H0959126B. I bought this genuine part (for £65.27 inc VAT) and it worked perfectly.
Thanks AndyS5 for the write up, just wanted to add to your post that instead of using a crowfoot wrench which is very hard to find in that size where I’m from you can also you use a 24mm socket with the spanner. Everything else is as andys5 has written up unless you are on an A6 like me which does not have the torque screws for the cover instead it has clips which need to be wiggled out which are a pain. German engineering at its finest.
 

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Hi, I know a few people in these forums have done this, and after plucking up the courage it was actually really easy to do. There's plenty of other posts detailing the VCDS codes that are apparent when the G395 sensor is faulty, so I won't repeat that here.

Tools Required :-
  • VCDS Cable
  • T-30 Torx screwdriver
  • 24mm crowfoot spanner (see below for a picture)
  • 3/8"extension bar
  • 3/8" ratchet
Parts required:-
  • G395 sensor (Part number 4H0 959 126 B) - See Note at the bottom
Here's how.

  1. At the very front of the engine bay, remove the 4 Torx30 screws from the plastic trim piece that covers the gap between the grill and the radiator,and goes the full width of the car. SEE PICTURE BELOW
  2. The plastic cover piece then just slides towards the back of the car and lifts off.
  3. You'll then see the G395 sensor mounted on the front of the radiator on the left hand side of the car (right hand side as you look at it). Might be on the opposite side on a RHD car, but I don't think it is. SEE PICTURE BELOW
  4. Unplug the connector from the top of it by squeezing the locking tab in and pulling upwards.
  5. You can then use the crowfoot spanner and extension to remove the sensor without having to remove any further bodywork on the car. It connects to a Schrader type valve (like a car tyre valve) so you will hear a very small hiss when you remove it, but you'll only lose a very tiny amount of gas, so it won't cause a problem.
  6. Screw the new sensor back on, and then tighten with the spanner and plug the connector back in.
  7. You'll then need to use your VCDS cable to reset the fault codes under the HVAC. I'm not positive that this step is essential to it working again, but I did it anyway as it's a good way to check that the fault code doesn't come back,and that you have solved the problem.
  8. When refitting the plastic trim piece the front edge of it slots into 4 slots in the grill, and then it locates itself over 3 little grey plastic nibs that stick up through holes in the front of the plastic trim piece. Obviously then just screw the 4 screws back in.
Note: I'm sure the official process is to remove the front grill and get at it that way, or maybe using a long 24mm socket would do the job (a standard 24mm socket is no good as the connector at the top is too big). I used a crowfoot spanner, 3/8" 3" long extension bar and ratchet, and it was incredibly easy. SEE PICTURE BELOW

Note: The original part on my car was a 4H0959126. I understood that this had been superseded by an updated part 4H0959126A which I bought as an OEM part for just under £30 from a motor factor on ebay. This did not work. I then went to my local audi garage and the parts guy said that there was an even newer version out 4H0959126B. I bought this genuine part (for £65.27 inc VAT) and it worked perfectly.
which vendor did you buy it from so i dont buy that one!
 

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Hi, just wanted to add thanks. Great post. Job done in about 20 mins. 2.7 has more clear space than 3.0 so some fiddling with an adjustable spanner / wrench got me there.
 

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Wow, dude, your hands are gold. Is it your profession? In my opinion, this replacement needs too many skills and knowledge, so I didn't risk doing it by myself even after reading the forums. I don't want to destroy something. So I have spoken to the guy who is working with air conditioners at https://www.socool.sg/ and he said me when he will be free he will help me. I believe him because he is a/c professional
 
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