Hi. When you look on top there should already be a terminal on one side, and all you have to do is to place yours on the opposite side.
There is alot of places that you can not use because audi have not put in a terminal on all of them. Remove the purple part on top and its easy to have a look witch one you can use.
When i needed one in front on left side there was a lot i could not use because of this.
The wires to the fuse blocks in the rear are really short on my A5 B8, it was a pain in the ass to remove the block to put in new terminal.

 

when you say there should be as terminal on one side do you mean a wire already in one side connected to a fuse which then you will put a wire next to it and it the fuse that goes in the gap will be connected to both wires ?

just to give you a example the picture i posted above the right fuse sleeve only has 3 fuses inside it the rest are empty can i not connect a wire with fuse to any of the others that are empty?

 

This picture is of my fuse box in front left side.
If you look closely on the red fuse panel i can add a wire on right side and add a fuse.
But in my brown panel there is no wires already going to the not used places. So adding one wire here will not help.

 

ok got ya so tapping for me is the only way as there is no other wires going to empty slots in the rest of the fuse sleeve. its a shame i wanted to try make it clean as possible but its ok i guess. i had a idea if i split the wire off in to two and put it in both sides of the empty slots and a use on top would that create the circuit and give me power to that wire?

 

No. if i understand you correctly that will not help. So not one empty slot have wire already on one side?

 

im going to go to the car now and take a picture and have a good look maybe im not looking close enough but as far as i remember when i checked there was only 4 fuses that has pins both sides and the empty slots was all empty nothing on either side

 

yh i just took a picture of the fuse block there is no pins on any of the slots

 

I have never added power to a fuse. I dont know how it is to get a new line from the battery or something.
But if you really not want to tap into a already existing fuse, you can use fuse in front. My car is LHD. it was a little work to tread cables for me. But i have a lot of wires to lay down from front to rear and also from rear to front.
I am retrofitting DAB radio, roller blind, rear camera, homelink and since i already have everything removed i lay down cable for the RS5 electric spoiler.
you only have one cable so should be a little easier to just tuck it under the trim instead of removing everything.

 

nice i just done the rear camera retrofit high-line everything working fine on mmi 3g+ i just used a fuse tap but i recently just 10 min ago seen this video on how to make it look more OEM i will post the YouTube video it dont show you how to do it but kind of explains it. and yh i think going to the front fuse box is going to be a bit of work which i cant be bothered to do its too cold outside maybe in the summer if i can be bothered i will try it lol. im doing rear seat entertainment next just trying to get all the parts i need then il have a crack at installing it

 

How to hardwire ACC wire OEM look in Audi A4 A5 Q5 A6 B8 B9 [2019]

this is the video i seen might help if anyone looking to add to the empty slots

 

just because there is no terminal on one side doesn't mean you cant use it, you can but just need to do the power terminal yourself instead of relaying on pre existing ones
you will need 2 crimp terminals, instead of one
with one tap into the common wire in the fuse block, that will be power, usually quite a thick one - disconnect the battery first so you don't short anything to the chassis
and the other terminal would be wired to whatever you need to power through the fuse.

or use a piggyback fuse holder, doesn't look OEM but is the simplest solution

 

just because there is no terminal on one side doesn't mean you cant use it, you can but just need to do the power terminal yourself instead of relaying on pre existing ones
you will need 2 crimp terminals, instead of one
with one tap into the common wire in the fuse block, that will be power, usually quite a thick one - disconnect the battery first so you don't short anything to the chassis
and the other terminal would be wired to whatever you need to power through the fuse.

or use a piggyback fuse holder, doesn't look OEM but is the simplest solution

View attachment 189886

thanks for the reply. what i essential wanted to do was all the empty slots that dont have a terminal in the fuse block i wanted to add wires in there so its ready to use for anything i need for example my rear camera uses fuse block E slot 6 but slot 6 in my fuse block is completely empty so i wanted to do some wiring and populate the empty slots on the left side as the right side is for the component wire. i need to know were does Audi hook up the empty slots that are ready to use by putting in pins in the right side from the components.

sorry this does sound dead confusing hope im making scene. ps i have used the piggy back fuse holder which is ugly as hell haha but it will have to do for now.

 

usually one side of the fuse block is a shared supply, going to all the fuses, kind of like a bus bar in house electrics in your fuse board. Then the other side goes to all the different things powered around the car

if you want to pre-populate the block, find a supply, tap into it, and insert the terminal into the block. Some supplies are on all the time, some switch on after ignition is on, so make a choice depending on your needs. I saw a video of a guy somewhere , changing the fuse block around so that his 12v socket in the boot was supplying power without turning on the ignition for example.

 

ok that makes sense so all i need to do is find were these wires that are live when ignition turns on and tap in to them for the rear camera so i can keep it oem as possible then use the other empty slots according to Audi diagram of what pin is for what component. im going to have some digging around i got a couple of testers coming for electric and wiring so i will trace these wires and see were they go to and then try tapping in somewhere and running wires to the terminals

 

what i mean is that whole fuse blocks are either live constantly or live after ignition is on, so you can tap into the wire on the common side of the fuse block and just add a terminal from it
see the example below that shows the common supply and the empty fuse space at the top that you could add.

not all are like that though so just check the fuse box if its wired like that.

 

ohhhh ok got ya so if i test a wire in the slot itself if its live on ignition or live all the time then tap in to that and wire it in to the common empty side then the right hand side my component pin will go in and fuse on top boom all set 😎 i been sitting down all day just thinking about this its been bugging me. cheers for your help pal ps according to the picture i posted if the wire i tapped off in to the common side is live on ignition is that ok it wont overload the wire will it?

 

yeah that would work, no worries with overloading the wire, you are only trying to power a rear camera so its not like its drawing loads of current.

 

one last thing when i tap off like that diagram if the amp rating i require is 5amp but the slot is lets say 10 or 30 on that wire will that matter?

 

if the wire you are tapping into is 10 or 30 but you require 5 then it is fine,
as long as the line you are tapping into can power what its supposed to originally + what you want to power + a safety margin, you are fine.
i would imagine it would be difficult to cross the line, the rear camera current draw will probably be in the range of milliamps, so its close to nothing in the grand scheme of things

 

brilliant i will crack on with this when the weather is good and il post some pictures once the new wiring is all done thanks for all your help