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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me!
Beautiful day, put the roof down... nope. Doesn't want to know.
The switch to drop all 4 windows isn't working either.
All windows operate individually. All relevant fuses checked, all okay.
One small indicator may be that the heated rear window has a problem as well. Press the switch and the light goes on then straight off again. Fuse for that one is also okay.

Any ideas please?
 

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Hi, I'm hoping someone can help me!
Beautiful day, put the roof down... nope. Doesn't want to know.
The switch to drop all 4 windows isn't working either.
All windows operate individually. All relevant fuses checked, all okay.
One small indicator may be that the heated rear window has a problem as well. Press the switch and the light goes on then straight off again. Fuse for that one is also okay.

Any ideas please?
Check the guard in the trunk, that stops the roof from opening up when the trunk is full. I have had that “gate” get manually pushed up when the roof is closed and the roof will not function in that case.

Even if the gate looks down, give it a tug and make sure it’s clicked into position.


Sent from my iPhone 13PM, using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
HI, thanks, the guard is fully up, but the boot empty. I pushed it up a week or so ago as it was down and going away for the weekend needed the luggage space, not had that problem before having done it many times.
 

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HI, thanks, the guard is fully up, but the boot empty. I pushed it up a week or so ago as it was down and going away for the weekend needed the luggage space, not had that problem before having done it many times.
When the guard is UP, the roof thinks the trunk is loaded and will not operate. The roof needs to have the room to stow away, so the space required is when the guard is DOWN. I have had to tug the guard down at least once, to make the roof operate.


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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
When the guard is UP, the roof thinks the trunk is loaded and will not operate. The roof needs to have the room to stow away, so the space required is when the guard is DOWN. I have had to tug the guard down at least once, to make the roof operate.


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I've not tried to pull the guard down, I've pushed it up many times in the past and not had any problems with it refusing to work afterwards. I'll try it tomorrow though, just concerned about breaking something though.
 

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I've not tried to pull the guard down, I've pushed it up many times in the past and not had any problems with it refusing to work afterwards. I'll try it tomorrow though, just concerned about breaking something though.
When I tugged mine, it had deployed itself to the down position, but wasn’t locked in place for the sensors to think so. I didn’t tug it down, just into fully down.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I tigger mine, it had deployed itself to the down position, but wasn’t locked in place for the sensors to think so. I didn’t tug it down, just into fully down.


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It’s fully up. Not sure if there’s a switch to put it form manually.
 

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It’s fully up. Not sure if there’s a switch to put it form manually.
Have a read through these posts. There is a description of how the mechanism is supposed to work. For sure the roof will not go down when that box is in the up position. You should get an obstruction message if you are trying to lower the roof, but the box is up.


And this one.


There is a lot to these roofs… might me corroded magnets, or something unplugged, or spring loaded gears… whew!


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How is yer battery???? Dont forget that these cars are VERY sensitive to the 12V battery and as soon as the battery starts to fail then you will have LOADS of electric and electonic problems. Worth checking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi, the battery is perfect. No other issues in the car except this one. There is some water in the right side compartment where the fuses are but they're all okay. There are two other things in there that I'm not sure what the functions are. One is a black box, the other is a pod with 3 fuse type things plugged in. I suspect that one of these things is the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I’ve given up. Taking it to an independent on Thursday. The chap worked for Vindis Audi for 13 years and has all the diagnostic kit to work out what’s happened.
I did talk to autosparks but they weren’t interested in roofs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
£563 quoted to replace the unit and pay main dealer to code it! Not sure that this is any better than a dealer would have charged me... oh, and £75 for the diagnosis to date.

Although there's no evidence of water ingress on the rear wing lights, I did have water coming in through the one on the boot lid. Most likely that's what's done the damage.

Given that the MMI unit has already been replaced thanks to the roof seal breaking down, I think it's probably a good move to get replacement seals for all 4 sections of the rear lights. I haven't been able to find a supplier for them though. Any suggestions would be welcomed.
 

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Water in the boot/trunk area is trouble, see, for example:


VAG P/N for the control unit is 8F0959255.
Looks like they're available: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313944649893
Not sure if Component Protection is active on these, or if module coding/adaptation is needed with a VAG-aware diagnostic tool like VCDS.
Left side seals for the taillights in the boot lid are 8T0945191 (PR-8SA) or 8T0945191A (PR-8SK/L); right side are 8T0945192/8T0945192A.
ETKA doesn't show seals for the outboard lights, since they're mounted to the outside of the rear fenders. --g
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Water in the boot/trunk area is trouble, see, for example:


VAG P/N for the control unit is 8F0959255.
Looks like they're available: 2013 Audi A5 Convertible Roof Control ECU 8F0959255 Box23 | eBay
Not sure if Component Protection is active on these, or if module coding/adaptation is needed with a VAG-aware diagnostic tool like VCDS.
Left side seals for the taillights in the boot lid are 8T0945191 (PR-8SA) or 8T0945191A (PR-8SK/L); right side are 8T0945192/8T0945192A.
ETKA doesn't show seals for the outboard lights, since they're mounted to the outside of the rear fenders. --g
Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I'll talk to the indie on Tuesday, I really don't want to be spending £560!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
we are having some difficulty working out how to get the box out of the compartment. I’ve found a replacement but need to be sure that it’s compatible before I buy it. The info, of course, is on the back of it.
interestingly, the seller doesn't think it needs to be coded. We will find out, but if anyone has any advice on getting it out, that would be appreciated.
 

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I don't have the service manuals for the A5 cab, so I can't say for certain, but it looks from here that the right side luggage trim needs to be removed to get at the top control module: https://f01.justanswer.com/nabilc/81045d3d-07ef-4efb-ab21-9bf9840e78e6_ctmod.pdf

Audi publishes extensive service documentation as PDF manuals, available through erWin in national markets. Here, a 24 hour erWin subscription is USD 35, which gives us access to ALL the published Audi service documentation; download only for your VIN or for as many model types that you can in 24 hours. I'd share if I had docs for the A5.
erWin – Startseite nicht eingeloggt --g
 
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