Vibration Issues

[HAWKiS5]

Originally Posted by Stavros

Yes, we have gone over this.
Cold tires are the main culprit, but the low profile tires can lead to easily deformed rims.
S.

Could be, but I had the problem already on the first trip with my S5, also after 30 minutes (I assume the tires are warm then).

[HAWKiS5]

Originally Posted by logic

Anyway's... i cannot understand why new tires (and rims) shouldn't solve the problem. That's not logical. I recently fitted new tires and rims, and the problem was gone, instantly. But... perhaps the problem returns due to some alignment issues which affect the tire pattern in some way that it will cause vibrations in the near future?

Hmmmm, I was considering to change wheels/rims anyway, do you think this will help? Does it need to have new tires too or is the main possible cause of this vibration the wheel/rim?

The strange thing is, my dealer is willing to help solve the problem under warranty (with the current wheels) but when I pay for new wheels/tires and the problem is solved, he might be willing to "sponsor" this solution.

Is it possible the cause is not in the tires/wheels but in the suspension or so?

BTW: I notice the vibration is much less when the steering wheels is completely pushed forward (so to the dash). Try it, and you feel better already!

[C99]

I have found in ETKA, that some parts of front and rear suspension were changed.

Cars from VIN 8T-8-11201 have new parts on front suspension
and from VIN 8T-8-15062 have new parts on rear suspension.

This maybe one issue.

I think another one may be Dunlop tires.

I have VIN 8T-8-19xxx and I have no vibration issue on my Michelin tires.


One old true: never buy a car in first year of production....

[Navin]

Just thought I'd join the bandwagon. Mines an '09 A5 and its done 3000kms and the vibration issue is beginning to tick me off too!

[ccompton]

Originally Posted by C99

I have found in ETKA, that some parts of front and rear suspension were changed.

Cars from VIN 8T-8-11201 have new parts on front suspension
and from VIN 8T-8-15062 have new parts on rear suspension.

This maybe one issue.

I think another one may be Dunlop tires.

I have VIN 8T-8-19xxx and I have no vibration issue on my Michelin tires.


One old true: never buy a car in first year of production....

Hi C99.

Many of the members with the vibration aren't on the dunlops anymore. A lot of the members with the problem are lowered, with custom wheels & lower profile tires.

I have a very sight vibration in the rear but only after switching to 20" wheels, no vibration whatsoever on the stock 19's with the dunlops. WHat some of us have come to believe lends more toward your first hypothesis, that it has something to do with the suspension.

So it will be interesting to see what happens with the new 09s.

[TXcarguy]

Originally Posted by ccompton

So it will be interesting to see what happens with the new 09s.

Well according to Navin's post above, issue exists for his '09 A5 with stock 19" wheels. So apparently no improvements just yet. Bummer.

[HAWKiS5]

I have 19" Audi wheels with Conti SC2 tires (and the vibration probleem between 100 and 120 km/h).

What is best to change first?
- new tyres on the same wheels?
- or new wheels with the same tires?
- or new tyres on new wheels together?

TIA

[C99]

So another theory is, if you change wheels, for wheels with different ET and lower the car, axle geometry would change. (but this theory of course does not work for Y 19 wheels)

Did somebody let check the suspension/axle geometry ?

[logic]

Originally Posted by S4udibert

Hmmmm, I was considering to change wheels/rims anyway, do you think this will help? Does it need to have new tires too or is the main possible cause of this vibration the wheel/rim?

The answer is absolutely positive. I've bought original 19" Y-design Audi wheels from EBAY. They had new Michelin PS2 (R01) tires and the vibration problem was gone instantly. I can even say that those Michelin tires offer much more comfort than the Bridgestone tires I have on my 18" set! 19" beating 18" on comfort!

The Michelins have much softer sidewalls, i like them a lot. I have done 2000km with them already, and still no vibration issues.

Like said earlier, i cannot believe that people claim new wheels/tires won't resolve the problem. That's BS, unless alignment issues will cause vibrations when the tires wear a little bit more. And time will tell, I cannot confirm that right now.

But for now, I'm already a huge Michelin fan.

[logic]

PS, this is the car with the old crappy Bridgestone Potenza 18" set:
http://users.telenet.be/dewitteraaf/A5/P1000253.jpg

This is the car with the Y-design set:
http://users.telenet.be/dewitteraaf/A5/P1000316.jpg

Pictures of the set:
http://users.telenet.be/dewitteraaf/A5/P1000289.jpg

As soon as I feel vibrations thru the steering wheel, I will let you know!

[sizzle]

Originally Posted by logic

The answer is absolutely positive. I've bought original 19" Y-design Audi wheels from EBAY. They had new Michelin PS2 (R01) tires and the vibration problem was gone instantly. I can even say that those Michelin tires offer much more comfort than the Bridgestone tires I have on my 18" set! 19" beating 18" on comfort!

The Michelins have much softer sidewalls, i like them a lot. I have done 2000km with them already, and still no vibration issues.

Like said earlier, i cannot believe that people claim new wheels/tires won't resolve the problem. That's BS, unless alignment issues will cause vibrations when the tires wear a little bit more. And time will tell, I cannot confirm that right now.

But for now, I'm already a huge Michelin fan.

Not to rain on your parade, but you have to give the tires a chance to wear. My vibration didn't develop with my new tires until about 2500 miles in. I'm not wishing ill will, but the reality is that "brand new" tires aren't a good gauge.

My theory is that tire wear and dirt buildup in wheel wells is the cause of the problem. The dirt buildup in my mind is mimicking an out of balance wheel. The ROOT CAUSE is an overly sensitive axle/suspension setup....

[logic]

Originally Posted by sizzle

Not to rain on your parade, but you have to give the tires a chance to wear. My vibration didn't develop with my new tires until about 2500 miles in. I'm not wishing ill will, but the reality is that "brand new" tires aren't a good gauge.

I was afraid that could happen on the long term... well, at least S4udibert has an answer to his questions. Thanks Sizzle.

[sizzle]

Originally Posted by logic

I was afraid that could happen on the long term... well, at least S4udibert has an answer to his questions. Thanks Sizzle.

Just doing my part bringing cheer to the community......

[HAWKiS5]

Thanks for all cheers and happiness Sizzle, Logic and C99

Originally Posted by C99

So another theory is, if you change wheels, for wheels with different ET and lower the car, axle geometry would change. (but this theory of course does not work for Y 19 wheels)

I now have the 19-inch Audi 7-spoke S5 wheels (see pics in New User thread) and already have the vibration since the start. I want to change it to (also) 19-inch Audi RS-6 wheels (the new ones!). How will I know the ET value of my current and the new wheel?

Originally Posted by C99

Did somebody let check the suspension/axle geometry ?

Originally Posted by sizzle

The ROOT CAUSE is an overly sensitive axle/suspension setup....

How can I check suspension/axle geometry and how can this be made less sensitive? Is there a factory modification (TSB) available?

Ok, will report back when my new wheels are on and hope this will be solved very soon.

[C99]

Originally Posted by S4udibert

I now have the 19-inch Audi 7-spoke S5 wheels (see pics in New User thread) and already have the vibration since the start. I want to change it to (also) 19-inch Audi RS-6 wheels (the new ones!). How will I know the ET value of my current and the new wheel?

You can read it on the wheels, on the inside. It looks like 9Jx19 ET29.

Originally Posted by S4udibert

How can I check suspension/axle geometry and how can this be made less sensitive? Is there a factory modification (TSB) available?

You can let it check at the dealer or tire/wheel shop, where have appropriate equipment.

[HAWKiS5]

Originally Posted by C99

You can read it on the wheels, on the inside. It looks like 9Jx19 ET29.

You can let it check at the dealer or tire/wheel shop, where have appropriate equipment.

Thx. So the current wheels are 9Jx19 ET29, the new ones on order are 8Jx19 ET35 5x112 (what does this last thing mean?). Will this change the setup?

Ok, keep you posted.

[SnowDay]

Originally Posted by S4udibert

Thx. So the current wheels are 9Jx19 ET29, the new ones on order are 8Jx19 ET35 5x112 (what does this last thing mean?). Will this change the setup?

5x112 means 5 bolt on a 112mm bolt circle diameter.

Your new wheels will sit further into the wheel well. The deeper offset of ET35 will move the centerline of the wheel 6mm further into the wheel well compared to ET29.

Also, your new 8" wide wheels are 1" narrower than your current wheels. Half of this difference will be in the outer (visible) part of the wheel - it will recede further into the wheel well by 12.7mm.

The combination of the offset and width changes will move the outer surface of the new wheels 18.7mm further into the wheel well. This is the opposite direction from what most people do. Most want to have the outer surface move outwards to fill the wheel well more.

The effect of these changes on vibration is hard to predict.

[whynokey]

Im not sure if anyone mentioned this already. but there is defiantely a service bulletin related to this issue. I have been going back and forth with this issue for a couple of months now, A field tech came out and found a service bulletin. The problem is 95 percent gone. It required a road force balance plus placing the wheels in a specific location depending on how it balanced plus a specific pressure. Still having a engineer to come out a look it just in case though.

[HAWKiS5]

Originally Posted by SnowDay

5x112 means 5 bolt on a 112mm bolt circle diameter.

Your new wheels will sit further into the wheel well. The deeper offset of ET35 will move the centerline of the wheel 6mm further into the wheel well compared to ET29.

Also, your new 8" wide wheels are 1" narrower than your current wheels. Half of this difference will be in the outer (visible) part of the wheel - it will recede further into the wheel well by 12.7mm.

The combination of the offset and width changes will move the outer surface of the new wheels 18.7mm further into the wheel well. This is the opposite direction from what most people do. Most want to have the outer surface move outwards to fill the wheel well more.

The effect of these changes on vibration is hard to predict.

Thanks for the clear and detailed answer. I will see if the same wheel is available in 9J or 9,5J and ET29

Originally Posted by whynokey

Im not sure if anyone mentioned this already. but there is defiantely a service bulletin related to this issue. I have been going back and forth with this issue for a couple of months now, A field tech came out and found a service bulletin. The problem is 95 percent gone. It required a road force balance plus placing the wheels in a specific location depending on how it balanced plus a specific pressure. Still having a engineer to come out a look it just in case though.

Do you know the number of this TSB? Then I can use this towards my dealer.

[whynokey]

no i dont, but if you call audi of huntington ny and speak to sheila Im sure she can help you out with that if your delaer is being difficult

[sizzle]

Originally Posted by s4udibert

Do You Know The Number Of This Tsb? Then I Can Use This Towards My Dealer.

44-08-04

[HAWKiS5]

Originally Posted by sizzle

44-08-04

Thx!

[HAWKiS5]

Ok, decided to change my S5 wheels for RS6 wheels (see pics here) and see if this would improve anything on the vibration issue. Both are 19", and using the same tyres, where the frond and rear tyres where switched.

The good news is, that the vibration is (almost) zero now. Let's hope it will stay this way also after 8000 km of driving.

Keep you posted. Anybody has an extract of this TSB-44-08-04?

[Blacky3.2]

It's all fun and games until you hit 62mph. I just hang on the steering wheel a little tighter and the vibration is gone. It helps that I try now to blow by 62mph-68mph so I only have the shimmy for a split second.

[Peter Smit]

Originally Posted by S4udibert

Keep you posted. Anybody has an extract of this TSB-44-08-04?

Here ya go.

[HAWKiS5]

Originally Posted by Peter Smit

Here ya go.

Thx, this is wat I needed. Clear contents, let's hope it can be solved.

[bigwhite]

i also have vibration issues. seems to be at around 60 mph, more or less.
car is going to Riverside Audi next week. so far, dealer service/customer service has been terrible. i hope it gets fixed as I really do love my S5. keep u posted....

[sizzle]

Originally Posted by bigwhite

i also have vibration issues. seems to be at around 60 mph, more or less.
car is going to Riverside Audi next week. so far, dealer service/customer service has been terrible. i hope it gets fixed as I really do love my S5. keep u posted....

Are you stock??

[bigwhite]

yes stock. am going to do the rims and usual mods, but want car to be perfect before i even consider the rims/suspension changes

[afiver]

Hi guys. I've been reading this thread and site for some time now,
decided to register to report my story on steering wheel vibrations.

I have a few weeks old 2009 A5 with normal servotronic, 17" stock wheels with
Michelin Primacy tires and the sport chassis, not the lower S-line chassis, but
the regular optional sport chassis.

Up to 2500 kilometers I had no vibrations problems, but after hitting a curb and
having one front wheel and tire which was externally damaged a bit replaced and
wheels realigned, a shimmy developed in the steering wheel at motorway speeds
starting around 100 km/h. It was very visible taking hands off the steering
wheel and most visible on very flat, new pavement. The shimmy wasn't caused by
the curb hit, the problem started after the wheel and tire were replaced.

The other wheels had lost maybe 1 mm of their surface due to wear, so the new
wheel was a bit different but not much. I toyed with different tire pressures,
but the shimmy didn't change much. The shimmy happened both when the wheels were
cold and when they were heated after driving.

Back to the shop, all wheels removed and balanced, only to be found to be pretty
much perfectly balanced. Wheels put back on, test drive - no more shimmy. The
wheels may have been improperly centered, so do check that your wheels are
centered and tightened properly so that they won't move out of center while
tightening. Sometimes just putting the car up on blocks, removing and
retightening all wheels might help.

Not the end of the story though. A few cold mornings later the shimmy
resurfaced. Not as bad as before, but still felt and visible. Test drive in the
evening, no shimmy. I was puzzled, the shimmy was now coming and going. One
morning when the shimmy was back, I decided to re-drive my morning route right
after getting to my destination. And you know what, no more shimmy on the same
piece of motorway I drove 15 minutes earlier. It had to be cold tires, temporary
flat-spotting maybe, or more likely just the other front wheel, the new one,
taking more time to behave like the older one.

Back to the shop, front wheels to back, back wheels to front. No shimmy yet, nor
any other unwanted vibrations. I do see A5 being more sensitive to road
imperfections than some cars I've driven, though.

So some ideas to check:

Make sure your wheels are centered and tightened properly.
Make sure your wheels are balanced.
Check tire pressures so that they are manufacturer recommended.
Check if the problem occurs only with cold wheels.
Move front wheels to back or the ones with lower road force to front.

Talking with the maintenance shop again after reading the Audi America technical
bulletin posted here, they too are now starting to take note of the road force
values and said they have had problems with cars with too high road force values
tires. The bulletin recommends putting lowest road force tires to the front.

Clearly some cars are more vulnerable to tire differences, A5 seems to be one of
those.