How To: Carbon Cleaning B8 V8 S5 and Injector Cleaning - Audi A5 Forum & Audi S5 Forum
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post #1 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 06:57 AM Thread Starter
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How To: Carbon Cleaning B8 V8 S5 and Injector Cleaning

This is a guide that is intended for informational purposes only. What you do to your vehicle is not my responsibility nor the responsibility of this website. Proceed at your own comfort level.

This was performed on a 2009 S5. Build date May 09.

I am going to try to explain this as best as I can. I did a few things that didn't need to be done, but I had no idea what exactly I had to do. I will attempt to compile ONLY the steps required to do this job (the way I plan on doing it next time, with lessons learned in hand); however, if I skip a step or something is unclear, please let me know. I will update the OP as necessary.

I did not compile a "tools required" for this job. If you are attempting this, you probably have all of the tools required for the job. This is no easy task.

Here we go:

Remove the fuel line running from the tank to the distribution block.



2 screws hold the distribution block to the car. Remove them. Also remove the electrical plug.



Remove the RH hose clamp. DO NOT worry about the LH clamp. The rubber hose will come out with the distribution block.



Follow the fuel line from the distribution block to the LH pump. There is a clamp and a line attached to the pump. Remove both. Pull the distribution block from the engine and set aside.



Pulling the intake. Remove sensor wire and 2 clips connecting the intake tube to the filter box.



Follow the intake tube up to the throttle body and remove all hoses that are clipped to the tube. Remove clamp and vacuum line as shown.



Additional connector must be removed as well. Be careful with this (I broke mine )



Close-up.



Removed.



Remove the tube from the car and set it aside.

Continued.

Last edited by ES803313; 26th November 2014 at 11:37 AM.
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post #2 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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Remove electrical connector on throttle body.



Close up.



4 screws to free the throttle body. Please count 4. There is 1 hidden from this view. Bottom left (of image).



Separate carefully.



This is how I remember what hardware goes where. Place them where they belong!



The PCV system on this car is fragile and unfriendly. I tried to remove it with the intake manifold and ended up breaking a piece. $100 later I want to avoid this headache for you. I apologize if these instructions are unclear. This path is a "theoretical best way" and should be followed with caution.

Remove these 2 screws. DO NOT worry about the hoses attached. They will stay in the car.
WARNING: This adapter is $100 to replace and is very fragile. There is a tube that sits inside of the intake tract that you will need to pull away from.
These screws are very hard to reach and you will have your patience tested.



Separated. Again, see how these two parts fit together.



To the front of the engine. Remove 16 (I think, please double check) screws that hold the upper intake manifold. 1 of these will also hold a clamp for the fuel lines going to the RH fuel pump.



Remove 2 of these.



Fish the shroud up and place it aside.



Start prying up on the engine using your weapon of choice. I used a long flathead screwdriver. You're going to feel bad thinking your hurting your baby. Just be gentle. Move around from one spot to the next. She'll give eventually. DO NOT try pulling the intake yet. There are still things connected. We just need to gain access to them.

Continued.
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post #3 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 07:20 AM Thread Starter
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Remove this connector (front right of engine).



As you lift. Remove this line.



There's one more line buried deep. I pulled my intake out without knowing about it. Thankfully nothing broke.

This line.



Connects to the open line at the middle right of this image (lower right of the engine bay).



Set the upper intake manifold aside. Sit back and look at the glory. BUT you're not done yet.



Removing lower intake manifolds.



Remove the screws that cover the lower intake manifold. I think there are 4 down low and 5 up high. DO NOT REMOVE YET!



There are two of these little buggers you need to remove first.



Pull from the car and set aside. Do the same for the opposite side.



Remove this fuel line to free the fuel rails. Same for the opposite side.



Continued.
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post #4 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 07:24 AM Thread Starter
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Remove connectors attached to your injectors. Pull on the fuel rail and the lower intake manifolds at the same time. They are interlocked. Some injectors will come out with the rail. Some will not. DO NOT pull the lower intake manifold too far. There are electrical connectors still attached.



Connectors.



You now have access to the partitions. Pull them with pliers.



Look at your ugly carbon buildup.



Test your injectors for resistance. Mine all read 2.0 OHMS.



SEND OUT YOUR INJECTORS TO BE CLEANED PROFESSIONALLY

I cannot stress this enough. This is something that you will have to perform at your own risk if you choose to do this yourself. I did not feel comfortable rigging a machine to pulse my injectors as they move fluid. $10 per injector for a professional is worth it, to me.

Cleaning valves.

I tried GM top engine cleaner and was only disappointed. The following method works best.

Buy a portable media blaster that is capable of blowing walnut shells. Buy WD-40 (but you probably already have this). Get a lot of shop towels. Buy a bore cleaner brush (gun dept. at your favorite shopping center).

Step 1. Spray some WD-40 into the valve to ensure that it is closes. If it is not closed, stuff a towel in it an move to the next. I believe 6 valves are closed at one time. 2 are open but do this step for ALL cylinders.

Step 2. Remove WD-40 to the best of your ability using towels.

Step 3. Blast with walnut shells. This makes a mess. Try your best to hold a shop vacuum near the ports to catch as much as you can. This is a two handed job.

Step 4. Using compressed air, blow out the walnut shells.

Step 5. Spray with WD-40 and scrub with gun brush. Soak up with towel.

Repeat steps 3-5 until you are satisfied with your valves. Do this for each cylinder.

Marvel in awe at your clean valves.

NOTE: This was after a walnut spray. Use WD-40 to remove walnut dust.


Last edited by ES803313; 26th November 2014 at 07:45 AM.
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post #5 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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OH... Assembly is opposite of removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by morski View Post
Just a word of advice to remove the manifold bolts in the correct sequence and to tighten them to the correct torques and to replace the gaskets.

ELSAWIN:



Tightening sequence for intake manifold

– Tighten bolts for intake manifold in the sequence -1 to 10-.

t Tighten initially to 8 Nm

t Subsequently tighten to 9 Nm and then tighten 90 further

Last edited by ES803313; 13th April 2015 at 05:45 AM.
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post #6 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 03:09 PM
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Wtf

TX.

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post #7 of 55 Old 26th November 2014, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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I'll try to clean this up with some arrows and circles and what not to help show what to do but I need to get my car back together! I hate waiting on parts!
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post #8 of 55 Old 27th November 2014, 11:21 AM
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Super guide for a common problem on the S5 V8! Thank you for all the details.

When cleaning I assume it is very importat to make sure the vales are closed to not get durt in to the cylinders. How did you check this and turn the engine to make it all closed?

Last edited by AutoPC; 27th November 2014 at 12:11 PM.
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post #9 of 55 Old 27th November 2014, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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I checked to make sure cylinders were closed by visual inspection followed by a small spray of WD-40 to make sure nothing leaks through.

To move the valves, I had a helper pull the car while it was in gear. Just make sure you have your injectors or spark plugs pulled to let air through on the cylinders that are on a compression stroke.

Don't panic if some walnut pieces get into the cylinder. They won't damage anything. Too much will clog the catalytic converters so just be cautious.
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post #10 of 55 Old 30th November 2014, 05:43 AM
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Tell us how she runs when all is said and done.

2009 S5, BrBlack/Black, Tip, B&O, Drive Select, Nav, Tech Pkge
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post #11 of 55 Old 30th November 2014, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandjstickney View Post
Tell us how she runs when all is said and done.
Will do. Had knee surgery on Friday to remove 2 tears in my meniscus so I won't be putting the car back together until Wednesday.

Gah I hate waiting.
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post #12 of 55 Old 2nd December 2014, 06:13 AM Thread Starter
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Got everything back together and she ran perfect last night. Still some slight hesitation on my commute to work this morning. I am going to try to get an OBD code to pop up so I can figure out what's wrong. I'm suspecting a bad injector, so I will be tearing into the car again in the coming months.
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post #13 of 55 Old 2nd December 2014, 07:17 AM
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I have the exact same issue, carbon cleaned and slight hesitation at about 2500 rpm. Hope you have luck as I can not find it.
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post #14 of 55 Old 2nd December 2014, 11:47 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_big_1. View Post
I have the exact same issue, carbon cleaned and slight hesitation at about 2500 rpm. Hope you have luck as I can not find it.
I'm suspecting an injector. I need to get the car to throw a code to be sure. Did you have your injectors serviced?
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post #15 of 55 Old 2nd December 2014, 10:12 PM
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I didnt. I was going too but the injector people told me it wasnt a symptom of injectors so I didnt do it.
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post #16 of 55 Old 14th December 2014, 03:42 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_big_1. View Post
I didnt. I was going too but the injector people told me it wasnt a symptom of injectors so I didnt do it.
I'm buying a Ross Tech cable to see what's going on. I had my car go into limp mode yesterday but didn't throw an engine light code. There is definitely a connector that's on its way out on the electrical side of things. This exact same thing happened when I put the car back together without the throttle body plugged in.
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post #17 of 55 Old 17th January 2015, 08:55 PM
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do you have pictures of the intake flaps? did you replace any parts while you had the manifolds off? would you say this was a 5 hours job?
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post #18 of 55 Old 18th January 2015, 03:56 AM
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Just a word of advice to remove the manifold bolts in the correct sequence and to tighten them to the correct torques and to replace the gaskets.

ELSAWIN:



Tightening sequence for intake manifold

Tighten bolts for intake manifold in the sequence -1 to 10-.

t Tighten initially to 8 Nm

t Subsequently tighten to 9 Nm and then tighten 90 further
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post #19 of 55 Old 18th January 2015, 04:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morski View Post
Just a word of advice to remove the manifold bolts in the correct sequence and to tighten them to the correct torques and to replace the gaskets.

ELSAWIN:



Tightening sequence for intake manifold

? Tighten bolts for intake manifold in the sequence -1 to 10-.

t Tighten initially to 8 Nm

t Subsequently tighten to 9 Nm and then tighten 90 further
Excellent info. I'll update the OP with this once I get onto my laptop.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lucino View Post
do you have pictures of the intake flaps? did you replace any parts while you had the manifolds off? would you say this was a 5 hours job?
Sorry, I don't have any pictures of the flaps. They were just oily. Wiped them off and put back on the car. I only replaced the gaskets and injector seals for this job with the exception of the adapter that connects to the intake tube just before the manifold since I broke it. I need to go back in to replace the injectors though. I'm suspecting one is faulty.
I can't really comment on the time for this job. I took a week to do it but I had knee surgery while I was waiting for parts. I could definitely do the disassembly and reassembly in about 3 hours. Cleaning was a real time consumer, though.
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post #20 of 55 Old 12th April 2015, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_big_1. View Post
I have the exact same issue, carbon cleaned and slight hesitation at about 2500 rpm. Hope you have luck as I can not find it.
Slight hesitation around 2500-2750 rpm is not carbon build up issue, it's ECU software problem. Older softwares have had hesitation around 2500-2750 rpm (EU ...560 001-007, 560F 001,002,004, US ...560G 001-004, newer version (EU ...560 008, ...560F 005, US ...560G 005-009) has moved it to 2000 rpm.

(these are ECU examples for m.y.2008 CAUA engine with original magnesium intake manifold. Newer engines have plastic intake manifold and different ECU numbers)

This hesitation is done because swirl flaps open in these rpm.

I did make sw. change and on my car they open in 1240rpm, so no hesitation now.
It did take me 3 years and 77 sw. revisions during testing...

Sad thing is, that Audi did last changes of ECU sw. for S5 m.y. 2008 EU cars in 2009, for US cars in 2013 (!!!).


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post #21 of 55 Old 26th August 2015, 11:49 AM
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I'd try to clean this up with some arrows and circles and what not to help show what to do but I you need to get your car back together! I hate waiting on parts! ;((
P.S
For more information you can visit the following blog: How to Remove Fuel Injectors? Do You Know How?

Take care
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post #22 of 55 Old 14th January 2016, 10:32 PM
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I followed your guide, and it's been great so far, Thank you! I do have a quick question however. I also have a 2009 Audi S5 that I opened up. No surprise that the valves were extremely dirty and filled with Carbon. 5 out of the 8 Valves were closed. The other 3 remained open and currently we have cleaned the 5 valves and are ready to move on to the other 3. However, I have an Automatic with the "Parking Break" enabled prior to opening the car up. We are wonder how to manually move the engine to get the other 3 valves to fully close so we can continue closing. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Much!

Vehicle Make/Model : 2009 Audi S5 - Automatic
Location: What state/country the car was driven primarily : Denver, Colorado
Mileage/Date in which CB was discovered : 67,0000
Oil used : Castrol Synthetic
Oil Change Interval : 5k Miles
Fuel Used : Sinclair / Costco / Conoco 93 Premium
How short/long are your trips on average : 5 Miles - 25 Miles
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post #23 of 55 Old 15th January 2016, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
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If I remember correctly you can get a spanner on the crankshaft bolt from under the car. Please be sure to unplug your coil packs and injectors (if you haven't already) as a safety precaution.
Then you just turn the crankshaft until the remaining valves are closed.
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post #24 of 55 Old 15th January 2016, 06:34 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightskyy223 View Post
I followed your guide, and it's been great so far, Thank you! I do have a quick question however. I also have a 2009 Audi S5 that I opened up. No surprise that the valves were extremely dirty and filled with Carbon. 5 out of the 8 Valves were closed. The other 3 remained open and currently we have cleaned the 5 valves and are ready to move on to the other 3. However, I have an Automatic with the "Parking Break" enabled prior to opening the car up. We are wonder how to manually move the engine to get the other 3 valves to fully close so we can continue closing. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks Much!

Vehicle Make/Model : 2009 Audi S5 - Automatic
Location: What state/country the car was driven primarily : Denver, Colorado
Mileage/Date in which CB was discovered : 67,0000
Oil used : Castrol Synthetic
Oil Change Interval : 5k Miles
Fuel Used : Sinclair / Costco / Conoco 93 Premium
How short/long are your trips on average : 5 Miles - 25 Miles
Also,

If you don't mind could you put together some notes on how to improve the instructions? Anything you did differently? Anything you were confused on? I really would like for this to be a reliable outline on carbon cleaning. Especially since we don't have @Cuppa ; here in the states.
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post #25 of 55 Old 15th January 2016, 09:48 AM
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Talking

Quote:
Originally Posted by ES803313 View Post
Also,

If you don't mind could you put together some notes on how to improve the instructions? Anything you did differently? Anything you were confused on? I really would like for this to be a reliable outline on carbon cleaning. Especially since we don't have @Cuppa ; here in the states.
I will definitely put together some notes as well. I'll let you know how the project ends up as well. Also, would removing the Fuel pump relay and attempting to start the car after reconnecting the battery again, be a viable alternative to move the engine ?
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post #26 of 55 Old 15th January 2016, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Midnightskyy223 View Post
I will definitely put together some notes as well. I'll let you know how the project ends up as well. Also, would removing the Fuel pump relay and attempting to start the car after reconnecting the battery again, be a viable alternative to move the engine ?
Yes if you can get the starter to turn that is an acceptable solution.
Again, please make sure you have unplugged your injectors and coil packs before attempting.

You will most likely trip many errors on the ECU. If you have VCDS you should run a scan before and save a log (in case you have existing issues).
Then you can turn the motor same as you would to start the car.
If you have the push button start your car will try to continue to crank though so be aware of that. I don't have an auto but if you remove your foot from the brake does it stop cranking? It does so if you remove your foot from the clutch on a manual.
Sorry for the ramble. I was thinking as I was typing.

Best of luck!
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post #27 of 55 Old 7th October 2016, 09:18 AM
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The injector link is broken, any other links showing how to remove injectors as detailed as this post? After reading this i feel a lot better about doing this myself!!
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post #28 of 55 Old 7th October 2016, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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The injector link is broken, any other links showing how to remove injectors as detailed as this post? After reading this i feel a lot better about doing this myself!!
Do not worry about the injector link. Notice how that's the user's only post. I wouldn't even click it if I were you (I know it's too late!).
Removing injectors is part of my how-to. Once you have the fuel rails pulled you simply pull on the injectors and they will come out.
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post #29 of 55 Old 7th October 2016, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ES803313 View Post
Do not worry about the injector link. Notice how that's the user's only post. I wouldn't even click it if I were you (I know it's too late!).
Removing injectors is part of my how-to. Once you have the fuel rails pulled you simply pull on the injectors and they will come out.
Awesome and thanks!! How many o-ring kits did you go through? I was told you only need to change if they rip and did you order OEM injectors?
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post #30 of 55 Old 7th October 2016, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure what you mean by o-ring kits. I replaced the injectors with OEM injectors. It's expensive but something as important as fuel delivery should not be skimped on.
I also replaced all gaskets (upper and lower manifold and throttle body) if that's what you're referring to. Injectors should come with all seals. I hope that answers your question.
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