How To: Carbon Cleaning B8 V8 S5 and Injector Cleaning - Page 2 - Audi A5 Forum & Audi S5 Forum
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post #31 of 52 Old 7th October 2016, 10:44 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by sandjunky View Post
Awesome and thanks!! How many o-ring kits did you go through? I was told you only need to change if they rip and did you order OEM injectors?
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I'm not sure what you mean by o-ring kits. I replaced the injectors with OEM injectors. It's expensive but something as important as fuel delivery should not be skimped on.
I also replaced all gaskets (upper and lower manifold and throttle body) if that's what you're referring to. Injectors should come with all seals. I hope that answers your question.
Just realized what you meant by o-ring kit. You're talking about the o-rings on top of the injectors that mate up to the fuel rails. It is a high pressure system so I would play it safe and use new o-rings. I'm sure they would work out for a while but I'm not sure if they would last the life of two injectors.
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post #32 of 52 Old 7th October 2016, 10:47 AM
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This is what i was looking at....
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post #33 of 52 Old 7th October 2016, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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This is what i was looking at....
Yep I replaced all 8 of those.
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post #34 of 52 Old 5th November 2016, 02:38 PM
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Hi,

About to attempt this in 2 weeks. Did you torque the fuel line nuts to 25nm, or did you eyeball it? I only have a regular ratchet style torque wrench, but these require an open ended wrench, so not sure how you did it...
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post #35 of 52 Old 7th November 2016, 09:42 AM Thread Starter
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Hi,

About to attempt this in 2 weeks. Did you torque the fuel line nuts to 25nm, or did you eyeball it? I only have a regular ratchet style torque wrench, but these require an open ended wrench, so not sure how you did it...
I eyeballed it. There are ways to get a torque on these if you feel you need to be exact (just search the Google machine) but I just gave it a good "feel" and all has been well.
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post #36 of 52 Old 22nd November 2016, 02:18 AM
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I just finished doing this on my 2008 S5 yesterday. My god - that was a very hard, back-breaking, annoying, yet satisfying job.

A few differences / tips (ES803313 feel free to add these to your OP) I had with my car:

1. The intake manifold is 1 piece (magnesium) - you don't need to take out the fuel rail to clean the intake ports
2. To remove the PCV control valve screws, cut off the zip tie on the engine loom behind it. This gives you enough room to put a small ratchet and twist in small turns. Make sure to secure with a new zip tie when done.
3. Loosen the third bolt a lot (it's quite long) on the opposite side of the PCV to get enough leverage to pop out the valve from the throttle body adapter.
4. To turn the engine (if you have a manual), I pulled out the spark plugs (as I was replacing them too), put it in 4th gear, lifted 1 tire off the ground and got someone to spin - a lot easier and safer than pushing the car back and forth
5. Make sure you have a bottle of coolant, I lost most of what I had in the expansion tank when I pulled the coolant hose off the intake manifold.
6. Some hoses are on tight, and if you can't get it off try the opposite end of the hose if possible (I did this for 3 hoses)
7. Get a LOT of rags/ wipes. Cover the intake ports that are open, spark plug holes, etc.
8. Make yourself a checklist of the re-installation procedure. Triple check all electrical connections, fuel rails, vacuum hoses are correct, gaskets are in, etc.
9. If you're doing this, you probably have access to VCDS and a workshop manual (I used alldatadiy)

And my biggest tip:
Take your time!!!!! I can't stress this enough. This engine layout is very complicated, with lot's of tight spots, and the replacement parts are very expensive. If you start getting impatient, you will break something, drop a screw down (speaking from experience here). I did this job over 5 days. First 3 days (2hrs each) were removing everything around to get the intake manifold off. Next day I took the intake manifold off (you'll probably need another person to help guide it around things) and did the carbon clean.

You don't need a walnut blaster. Here's my ghetto way:
1. Use a pick and screwdriver to pry off and loosen the carbon build up.
2. Lay cloth over the base and everywhere else
3. Using some tube, blow into the intake ports and the carbon pieces will fly off
4. Making sure the intake valve is closed, poor fuel cleaner into the port to fill it to the top (I used Liqui Moly Fuel System cleaner, 2 bottles)
5. Let it soak for 10+ mins
6. Use a wire brush and pipe brush to scour the intake ports and valve stem
7. Suck out the now dirty fuel cleaner with a suction tool
8. Dry out the valves
9. Pick any left over carbon build up and blow that out as well.

You won't get a perfect result as a walnut blaster, but close to 90% I'd say (look at the pics below).

All in all, it was a satisfying job. Would I do it again? Probably not on this car. Am I glad I did it? Yes. Haven't had a chance to thrash it to see if it's making any more power yet.

Here are some pics (110k miles of carbon build up):
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post #37 of 52 Old 22nd November 2016, 04:56 AM
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Er excuse me wonderful thread thanks guys!!! But would I get the same result with the Carbon Cleaning that I have read about on here??? Cos if so then it would surely be faster and easier?? Thanks guys.

2008 A5 coupe, silver, 3.2 V6 FSI 2WD with 19" wheels and Pirelli P-Zeros. 150,000km. Leather interior, auto box, S Line. Love it !!
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Just had the wheels refurbished, the bodywork polished and rear badges removed. In LOVE. Just fitted the pedal box booster thing too.....
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post #38 of 52 Old 22nd November 2016, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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mirror: Very good and congrats on your accomplishments. I need to take some time to refresh the OP but reading through this thread should provide some good insight. You have a 2008 model so your experience will be a bit different than 2009s and above (for example, our intakes are two-piece and you must remove fuel rails to access intake partitions) but I will surely direct people to your post for their 2008 models.

Very interesting note on the method for turning over the engine. I'll give that a try next time. It was easier for me to just pull the car while in gear.

I also had no need for coolant so maybe that is a 2008 thing, as well?

All of these notes are extremely helpful. I appreciate your efforts to keep us in the know, especially with different years coming with different configurations. This will be a huge help to the community as we gain more DIYers.

And I agree, please TAKE YOUR TIME!!!




simon: I think the gig that some of you have with port injection cleaning works but it's not a common procedure in the states so perhaps that's why you are seeing some of us go through the pain of disassembly. I have not read much about the port injection cleaning so I cannot comment on its effectiveness.
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post #39 of 52 Old 23rd November 2016, 06:05 AM
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ES803313 ok thanks I understand, it is not yet available here in Italy either as far as I know.....

2008 A5 coupe, silver, 3.2 V6 FSI 2WD with 19" wheels and Pirelli P-Zeros. 150,000km. Leather interior, auto box, S Line. Love it !!
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Just had the wheels refurbished, the bodywork polished and rear badges removed. In LOVE. Just fitted the pedal box booster thing too.....
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post #40 of 52 Old 2nd December 2016, 03:14 AM
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So after the cleaning unfortunately I don't feel any extra power, which is a shame. The only difference is when flooring it around 6k RPM there's still some power left, whereas before it sort of was revving for the sake of it. Guess it makes sense as after a carbon clean you can push more air through. Fuel economy is slightly better, which is a plus. Anyone else care to comment on their before/after experiences?

'08 S5 6MT

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post #41 of 52 Old 3rd January 2017, 06:49 AM
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Thank you very very much for this awesome post...

I'm having trouble with my vacuum line (P2006 and P2007) and I have to check / change my solenoid and / or lines...


I will begin tonight... Many thanks

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post #42 of 52 Old 3rd January 2017, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themirror178 View Post
So after the cleaning unfortunately I don't feel any extra power, which is a shame. The only difference is when flooring it around 6k RPM there's still some power left, whereas before it sort of was revving for the sake of it. Guess it makes sense as after a carbon clean you can push more air through. Fuel economy is slightly better, which is a plus. Anyone else care to comment on their before/after experiences?
MPG was minor but the dyno showed 27whp and 12lbs put back to the engine.
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2011 Audi S5 4.2L V8 Coupe
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post #43 of 52 Old 6th January 2017, 12:39 AM
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Work in progress...

Thanks again, many thanks for you post


S5 - V8 4.2L - 2009

Audi Drive Select - Bang & Olufsen - Keyless Advanced - Homelink - Light Assist - MMI advanced GPS HDD '2014 - Glasstint ...
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post #44 of 52 Old 6th January 2017, 06:14 AM Thread Starter
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Snake I'm happy to see you're finding value in this post. Post some before/after shots of those valves!

EDIT: Just read you are changing out a solenoid. I thought you were doing a carbon clean. Either way I'm happy you got everything out!
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post #45 of 52 Old 6th January 2017, 07:22 AM
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Just finished, 1 hour ago.

No more codes, everything goes fine, yeeaah

S5 - V8 4.2L - 2009

Audi Drive Select - Bang & Olufsen - Keyless Advanced - Homelink - Light Assist - MMI advanced GPS HDD '2014 - Glasstint ...
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post #46 of 52 Old 7th January 2017, 12:05 PM
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Thanks for the how to, helped me to replace a broken solenoid. I did find getting to the two PCV screws was easier if you unscrew two screws on the back of the PCV holding it to the valve in your picture that attaches to the intake.
Basically splitting the PCV in two, the back piece fits into the one in your picture the same way that one fits into the intake.
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post #47 of 52 Old 8th January 2017, 09:33 AM
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Exactly the same for me.

It's much more easier (for me) to proceed like this :

- Unscrew these 2


These are screws 3+4 on this drawing on which the engine is seen from behind.



To separate the 2 parts, unscrew (not completely, just 2-3 turns) the screw 5




This is the way I chose, and it was easier, I think...
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Audi Drive Select - Bang & Olufsen - Keyless Advanced - Homelink - Light Assist - MMI advanced GPS HDD '2014 - Glasstint ...
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post #48 of 52 Old 9th January 2017, 12:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeTrammel View Post
MPG was minor but the dyno showed 27whp and 12lbs put back to the engine.
Wow that's quite significant! Haven driven it a lot more I can really feel the power in the top end (I'd say above 6krpm) now.

'08 S5 6MT
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post #49 of 52 Old 9th January 2017, 04:12 AM
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+1 Snake29
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post #50 of 52 Old 11th January 2017, 10:06 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake29 View Post
Exactly the same for me.

It's much more easier (for me) to proceed like this :

- Unscrew these 2


These are screws 3+4 on this drawing on which the engine is seen from behind.



To separate the 2 parts, unscrew (not completely, just 2-3 turns) the screw 5



This is the way I chose, and it was easier, I think...
Snake,

I attempted to remove the manifold in that manner but ended up breaking the piece that you are now removing with the manifold. I broke it when removing the coolant lines from it. That's why I chose to simply leave it on the car.
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post #51 of 52 Old 11th January 2017, 11:11 AM
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OK, I see !

Maybe you broke it because it was fragile ?...
I saw on forums that many people had to change it.

And that was the same for me !
I changed this piece (079133424S) 1 week before, because it was broken just after the coolant line...



If some of you want to remove the manifold and if your car is more than 6y old or more than 60,000 miles, I suggest you to change this item...


S5 - V8 4.2L - 2009

Audi Drive Select - Bang & Olufsen - Keyless Advanced - Homelink - Light Assist - MMI advanced GPS HDD '2014 - Glasstint ...
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post #52 of 52 Old 11th January 2017, 11:18 AM Thread Starter
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OK, I see !

Maybe you broke it because it was fragile ?...
I saw on forums that many people had to change it.

And that was the same for me !
I changed this piece (079133424S) 1 week before, because it was broken just after the coolant line...



If some of you want to remove the manifold and if your car is more than 6y old or more than 60,000 miles, I suggest you to change this item...

Yes, exactly!
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