Hi Shamus.
The P2015 code is usually caused by wear on the linkages between the electric motors and the swirl flaps on each intake manifold. A real stupid bit of design from Audi, as the ball and socket joints are both made from plastic. These will move every time you accelerate and have probably moved 5 times before you even get off your driveway each morning. Multiply that by 45k miles and that's a lot of wear for some cheap $hite plastic components to have to deal with. The wear produces excess movement in the linkages which the electric motors then report as a fault.

A solution for this is to get the repair kit from Audi 2 x part number 059 198 212 at a total cost of something like £30 for the pair, although having said that, my Dealer doesn't recognise the repair kit and wanted to sell me complete intake manifolds at £500 a side. I got a set from ebay instead and the package that arrived was what was shown in the photo. I had to replace mine at 47k miles.

That should get rid of the P2015 fault.

Do you still have an EGR related fault code or was it just the P2015 code?

 

Is this an easy fix Marty?
New to the audi engine new

bmw very wel due to time of ownership.

do you have the ebay seller?
I ran car yesterday and light remained OFF so using tomorrow to take bro in law for a clutch for his evo.
So will report back then.

by the sounds of it german over engineering is now not happening and also issues of coking up. WTF VW AUDI Forum - VWAF
seems common...


if anyone can give a how to for these parts marty has kindly given 059 198 212 i would try this anyway as it seems if there not goosed they soon will be.

thanks marty
quick question when standing at the front of the car looking at engine is bank 1 left or right side?

 

Just ordered a set of 2 £31.49 from ebay genuine parts.
part number are per Marty

 

I just found this which answers a lot of questions but is in German.
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=o97yPYwebhE
it's on a 2.7 but presume 3.0 is the same?
So as above is thos bank 1 or 2 he is working on?

I got both but would like to start with the one the code was for first.

 

If you can change a clutch on an Evo, this shouldn't be much of a problem :thumbsup:

Quick 'how to'...

You will need to take the upper inlet manifold off complete with the fuel lines that run across the manifold. You'll then see what's shown in the first photo below.
You can see the tops of the two electric motors above each lower inlet manifold (circled). The connections from the motors to the inlet manifold swirl flaps are at the rear of each motor.

The connections are shown in the second photo. The motor has been disconnected and removed from the top of the inlet manifold and the ball and socket joint separated. This ball and socket joint simply pops apart/together. The ball end is fixed to the motor and is not part of the repair kit.

The bottom connection shown attached in the second photo includes a ball connection that fits into a groove in the inlet manifold and a metal clip that fits over the connection to tie it to the inlet manifold to keep it together in service. To remove the bottom connector you just need to hook a screwdriver, or hook type tool under the metal clip and pull it up to remove the clip. Then you'll need to ease the bottom connector out from the inlet manifold. Start it off with a screwdriver to wedge between the inlet and the connector and ease them apart.

The drivers side is okay to get to for space but the passenger side is a bit tighter due to the heat shield from the dpf. I had to bend the heatshield out of the way when I had refitted the parts as it was very close to the lower connection to the manifold. Its also a bit of a PITA to fit with the heatshield in place so alternatively you can remove it - its just 3 screws - two on the top of the turbo and one down the side as long as you can get to it.

The photo is a bit deceiving in this respect. I was taking quite a lot of engine bits out of it in order to get both lower inlet manifolds off and the photo has been taken after the heat shield and turbo have been removed and the dpf is loose within the engine bay. The dpf in the photo is quite a bit lower than what you will find once you get started.

The location of the side connector for the heat shield is actually shown in the second photo - it is the bolt that is fitted through the black metal bracket level with the top socket joint for the inlet manifold connector - circled in red.

Refitting is reversal of removal as the good old Haynes manual would say.
If there was one for the A5.
Which there isn't of course.:thumbsdown:

Unless you have a CAPA code engine, you will also need to bleed the fuel system through to prime the high pressure fuel pump after you refit the fuel lines.

Regarding bank one or bank two - don't know which is which tbh with you. I just replaced both sides whilst I had it apart.

If you are still worried about the DPF throwing a fault, there's not much you can do in order to to keep it in as good a condition as you can other than to use a quality branded fuel - i.e. not supermarket non-branded chip fat, and by also giving the car a workout every now and again in order to get the exhaust system really hot. You can do this at less than warp 9 on the nearest motorway by driving at normal-ish speeds in 5th gear rather than 6th gear just to keep the revs up and to get heat into the system to clear it out. You wont need to scream around on the rev limiter, but just keep the revs up between 2000-2500rpm for a while. I do this every month or so for the length of the 8 mile motorway stretch of daily commute.

Hope this helps.

Any queries just shout. Good luck.

 

Thank you.
looks totally different from you tube video of 2.7.
parts ordered so when they come in expect updates or asking for help. :2thumbsup:
i think it is a capa off the top of my head.
car tends to get a wee blast anyway.

Update code back today after 3 starts of engine. Check codes as I had cleared them all
It's just this 1 code that has returned which is silver lining as there were loads
when I 1st plugged in.

As above parts ordered. I am betting bank 1 is the right side as you look at the
engine bay from front as there is a bit more play in this side on the ball and socket
part of the arm.

Looks tight but at least it's the top of the engine. M5 was worse.... developed fingers to bend like flamingo legs.. lol

 

Yeah, I ended up taking a bit more off in order to get to the banjo bolt attached to the nearside head.
First photo shows what I took off or rather, what was left intact. Second photo shows the banjo bolt in question, which is normally hidden beneath all the EGR junk. As you can see, in order to get this lower inlet manifold off, the banjo bolt has to be removed as the pipe is supported by fixing it to the manifold. In order to get to the banjo bolt this time around, I had to take off all the EGR system - valve, cooler and motor - and this is fixed to a mounting frame that also holds water stub pipes in each side of the block so as you lift the mounting frame, the stub pipes come out as well... and on and on and on it goes.:wall:

 

Could this be something to do with why mine smells like a coal-fired power station 80% of the time?

Drives fine most of the time and never had any engines lights but can be wiffy especially during the cold weather.

 

Hmmm, not sure tbh with you. Diesel exhaust isn't the most pleasant aroma at the best of times but I haven't expeienced power station levels of fallout from mine, well not yet anyway.

I have read threads about petrol cars producing a smell like rotten eggs or stink bombs and if memory serves it seemed to be a combination of sulphur content in the fuel and what happened to the exhaust from it when it passed through a petrol engine cat converter.

Not much help I know......

 

Take anymore out you'll be at the sump...

 

I seem to remember taking the headlining out at some point:thumbsup::yikes:

 

It's my first diesel but this ain't no cat smell... smells like crap in the EGR getting sucked in the cylinders to me. Maybe using high grade fuel is helping it clear it's throat but wondering if I need to degunk intakes come spring.

 

You could always try some fuel system cleaner in it as well. Ive used Forte Diesel fuel system treatment in mine and some people report to have felt benefits from Wynns stuff as well.

A combination of good quality branded fuel, occasional fuel treatment and regular extended runs at motorway speeds to get it hot in order to blow out as much crap from the DPF is about the most we can easily do.

Having had the lower inlet manifolds off my 3.0tdi twice in six months, its disappointing to see how quickly the soot/carbon seems to re-attach itself to the inside of the manifolds.

 

While looking in to my issue i found a few that needed decoked some with not high miles.

 

Trust me I blast it through and it's had a couple of injector cleaner flushes. It regens fine but on occasion just feels like it's a little restricted. I might be imagining it but I've now had the car long enough to gauge its performance from tank to tank. Oh and I run premium brand fuel with ultimate or v-power every 3rd or 4th tank.

 

Still waiting on parts but i was looking at where parts were and moved the flaps
with my hand. Eml still not come on since.
I will swap anyway when parts arrive but could this be a coincadence poss moving part by hand or could it have been something stuck?

Just wondering as i have been using car a lot over past few days.
Car feels like its pulling harder but may be just due to cooler air.

Anyone?

As said will swap parts as known issue anyway.

 

Parts arrived xmas eve and so did eml. Wad gonna give it a go but ate to much and struggling to bend over without feeling sick so will try next few days.

Merry Christmas everyone.

 

Done the passanger side 5 mins driver side i cant get the clip back on as it underneath.
Help!

My drives side one is mega worn. It fell off when i released presure from the motor.
The ball won't stay on linkage so pretty sure this would be the issue.
So my car was showing fault on bank 1 so I can only assume drivers side is bank1.

 

Job done to clear P2015 code.

Linkages from the electric motors to the swirl flaps done.
Thanks to Marty V8 for all the info. 2x Repair kit part no# 059 198 212.

Passenger side UK car was 5 min job.
I popped off the top part of the linkage with a flat blade screwdriver then used this to
Pop off the C clip i used a screwdriver to move the bottom of the heatshield
To get the bottom linkage out also used a flat blade and eased it.
Just remember to watch the small coller doesn't fall off.
Do this in reverse.

The Drivers side was a pita.
I eventually took the motor off with the 3 bolts to give me more room when i was putting back together SO I WOULD SUGGEST DOING THIS JUST AFTER YOU POP OFF TOP LINKAGE.
C clip is the other way round.
Do the same as above but take the motor off. You can see youtube link in thread.

To put clip back on i used doublesided tape on a tywrap to help pull it up.

I would also say have a magnet in case of dropping c clip.

I hope this helps anyone.

MAKE SURE ENGINE IS STONE COLD!

 

HELP! clip problem! for linkage

:thumbsdown: :yikes: :thumbsdown:
I can def say drivers side uk model is bank1.
My car just EML'D me bank 1 (P2015)
Clip lying on top of engine..

HOW DO YOU GET THIS CLIP ON!
it was on last night took car out today all good then bang the amber light. Feck!

Getting fed up with audi and there stupid decisions...

Help

 

So after much swearing job done.

What i have noticed is my car has a lot more grunt low down the rev range.
Is this normal? I thought car was driving normal by got a proper kick up the backside again.

So all in looking good.
Success.

 

Just finished it 2 mins ago and looking good..My advice after much feckin about is..Take the motor off with the 3 torex bolts and support bracket..i used grips as no access.Took of pipe from air filter just 2 jubilee clips but left wiring on. Also left the wiring on motor.I took off bottom ball joint and clip.Hard bit is relocating new clip.....I would suggest putting a rag down for dropping things.I would also say plenty of light and try puting clip on with out any ball joint etc so you can see where you need it to be (6 o'clock position) this way you will see where you need to be.I then put the ball joint in and located it. I then got the clip where i thought it went and pulled it up with a zip tie or bro in law did as i held it in place.What i would watch for was make sure both sides of the clip are in the groves as i had to splay the clip a wee bit not sure if i bent it slighty or not.Take a before photo as i was not sure if on properly so you can compare clip.The rest is just revese.I hope all my pain has helped you mate.So far eml out not codes after reset started and stopped half a dozen times. But going to dhops so about 4 mile trip later.If clip on wrong and you move ball joint it pops off .

I hope this help everyone.