3.0 Tdi Active Exhaust - Page 4 - Audi A5 Forum & Audi S5 Forum
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post #91 of 119 Old 11th February 2017, 11:48 AM
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Bob, you feel like that because you have been....

Let us know how you get on when you take it back and ask them to fit it properly.....or give you all your money back.

Don't think they will be doing the servicing though........based on current performance I wouldn't trust them to empty the ashtray. ...

Sober since 1st January 2016......unfortunately it is now clear to me how fucked up our world is. It's enough to turn a man to drink.....
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post #92 of 119 Old 11th February 2017, 03:23 PM
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Sorry things haven't worked out for you - I hope you can start to enjoy the sound now you're back from hols though.

As I mentioned above, there's a few places to bolt the module (I hope they left you the mounting bracket!) but I presume you'll be asking them to sort that out with the others items. The kit comes with 6 rivets for a reason! Did they use the coupe rivet places instead of sportback then (it's difficult to tell them apart I know, if you aren't wearing your glasses )

I wouldn't dream of leaving a control module laying around (I'm glad they didn't rivet it in place), not use plastic trim tools, not properly tape the wires with black automotive tape into the existing loom, and generally have some pride over a proper job.

One things for sure, you'll be having a crack at your next mod though

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Mods completed: s-tronic gear knob, memory seats, Audi rear camera, Connect/Google, kerb-tilt mirror, Bluespark CR Tech 2 tuning box, Audi Drive Select, Audi Active Exhaust
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post #93 of 119 Old 11th February 2017, 03:27 PM
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I just thought. ... at least you didn't pay full wack and feel ripped off afterwards!

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Mods completed: s-tronic gear knob, memory seats, Audi rear camera, Connect/Google, kerb-tilt mirror, Bluespark CR Tech 2 tuning box, Audi Drive Select, Audi Active Exhaust
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post #94 of 119 Old 13th February 2017, 03:11 PM
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So sorry to hear that Big P.

I'm DEFINITELY going to have a crack at doing the wiring bits myself after reading your post.

I have some good news.... My active sound exhaust should be coming tomorrow!!!! Tomorrow is also the due date for my second child so hopefully I will have two beautiful things arriving tomorrow, keep us in your thoughts and prayers that all goes well

I have a dealer warranty that runs out in March so won't get the exhaust itself installed until then, but in the meantime I'm gonna see what I can do about the wiring and get that in place!!! This should be fun!!!! May need some help from A5OC to get my head around it and get this party started!!!
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post #95 of 119 Old 14th February 2017, 10:28 AM
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Any news @Barmybob?

Good luck with the very precious newcomer to your family @unsilence and I hope all goes well for you both (oh... and same with the new baby too )

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Mods completed: s-tronic gear knob, memory seats, Audi rear camera, Connect/Google, kerb-tilt mirror, Bluespark CR Tech 2 tuning box, Audi Drive Select, Audi Active Exhaust
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post #96 of 119 Old 14th February 2017, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrsd View Post
Here is the link to the kufatec sound booster video. https://youtu.be/dJyMb66k09g

is that a recirculating valve I hear about 40 seconds in?

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post #97 of 119 Old 15th February 2017, 06:53 AM
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guys can this be fitted to a petrol?!!!!
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post #98 of 119 Old 19th February 2017, 11:20 PM
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Good news - I look forward to hearing about the additional module and how to add the settings to the INDIVIDUAL setting

2013 A5 Coupe s-line Black Ed 3.0tdi quattro phantom black - tech pack, electric/heated seats, light pack
Mods completed: s-tronic gear knob, memory seats, Audi rear camera, Connect/Google, kerb-tilt mirror, Bluespark CR Tech 2 tuning box, Audi Drive Select, Audi Active Exhaust
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post #99 of 119 Old 22nd February 2017, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmybob View Post
Thanks for asking....

Car booked in, they wish to keep it for several days to replace trim and address the fitting issues

I have also ordered a CETE BLE module to enhance the sound profiles. It will disable the system completely in comfort mode, behave as standard in AUTO but prevent the system shutting off at 3000rpm and allow full modification in other modes.

They have mentioned sending me instruction on how to enable a Motor sound function in the INDIVIDUAL settings menu.
Hahaha nice one Barmybob!

Exhaust arrived... in the end paid 230 all in (had a family contact sort out the courier for me and didn't charge me, what a lovely bunch!)

The actual pipes themselves look used, one even has a very minor dent from what was probably a very nasty bump, everything else looks brand new in the box and untouched, including the chrome black tips

I can't decide whether to go for the CETE BLE module, or go the Kufatec route. Kufatec seems much more customisable, but CETE have that awesome Active Sound Gateway app have that phone app that's just soooo user-friendly to edit the sound instantly afrom your phone, as opposed to the Kufatec route of whipping out my laptop and hooking it up to the car every time I fancy tinkering with the sound...

Dealership warranty on my whip runs until end of March, so going to wait patiently for a month while I deliberate my options.

I'm still seriously considering DPF delete + custom exhaust + wield the sound resonators/actuators onto the custom exhaust... hmmm... maybe do a custom quad exhaust setup, two exits for the real thing and two for the active sound hahaha!
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post #100 of 119 Old 23rd February 2017, 01:14 PM Thread Starter
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Now had a chance to play with the CETE module and I like it.

It was all a bit confusing at first but once I worked it all out (Activation Method Etc.) and re-named the profiles I really like it.

I have a profile for Efficiency (Quiet), Comfort (ALL OFF), Auto (Similar to Audi - Dynamic) and Dynamic (Very loud and noisy :O ) The system allows you to edit each of the profiles to suit which is a nice touch. Once you have the APP running on your smartphone you can view and edit each profile as you select it via DRIVE SELECT. There are options to change profiles via other buttons, such as the engine start / stop button, for those without drive select.

I am very happy with the CETE module addition. It's a bit expensive but is simple to install (Fits in-line) with no extra cabling or switches needed. For me the complete OFF option is rather handy too for those stealthy 5am starts, far less likely to have the neighbours getting upset.

The system now functions more like it should have from Audi!

3.0 Tdi Quattro "Black Edition" Daytona Grey
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Previously - 2010 3.0 Tdi Quattro S-line Special Edition S-tronic. Black pearl with black leather. Electric seats with memory, Dimming door mirrors & MMi 3g
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post #101 of 119 Old 23rd February 2017, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmybob View Post
Now had a chance to play with the CETE module and I like it.

It was all a bit confusing at first but once I worked it all out (Activation Method Etc.) and re-named the profiles I really like it.

I have a profile for Efficiency (Quiet), Comfort (ALL OFF), Auto (Similar to Audi - Dynamic) and Dynamic (Very loud and noisy :O ) The system allows you to edit each of the profiles to suit which is a nice touch. Once you have the APP running on your smartphone you can view and edit each profile as you select it via DRIVE SELECT. There are options to change profiles via other buttons, such as the engine start / stop button, for those without drive select.

I am very happy with the CETE module addition. It's a bit expensive but is simple to install (Fits in-line) with no extra cabling or switches needed. For me the complete OFF option is rather handy too for those stealthy 5am starts, far less likely to have the neighbours getting upset.

The system now functions more like it should have from Audi!
Awesome review, thanks barmybob!!!
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post #102 of 119 Old 23rd February 2017, 04:57 PM
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Red face Here we go...

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigP View Post

You'll need to remove the trim either side of the boot, the floor cover and the plastic protective trim across the opening - the kit comes with cable ties with press in studs to fix the cable across the width of the boot, into the available holes.

From there you'll see how the cable will run along the right wheel arch and down into the seat area. I then used electricians rods to pull it under the carpet by the transmission tunnel (make sure you protect the connectors with masking tape after bending the wire back) up into the rear of the centre console, feeding it through the left side of the console. You'll have to remove the glovebox which is about 6 screws. Here's a guide on trim removal but there's a few others (on here too).

All you need is in the kit but you should end up with 3 useless rivets

oCarbon ? blog B8 A4/S4 Trim Removal Guide
Hey BigP,

Hope you can help...

So I've picked up a trim removal kit and the Dremel..... I'm going to be attempting the electrics soon with some friends... exactly what trim elements need removing?

Is this right:

1. Boot side walls
2. Boot protective trim across the opening of the boot
3. Seats to be removed?
4. Rear of the centre console??? (what about the centre console top surrounds where the brushed aluminium normally sits on an S line model)
5. Glovebox opening to be removed/dropped

Any of those unnecessary? And am I missing anything? (e.g. I have no idea how to get the wires under the carpet without an electrician's rod, if you guys can recommend the right kind of Rod off Amazon or fleabay that'd be great )

Many thanks for your help and inspiration on this thread!!!
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post #103 of 119 Old 24th February 2017, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unsilence View Post
Hey BigP,

Hope you can help...

So I've picked up a trim removal kit and the Dremel..... I'm going to be attempting the electrics soon with some friends... exactly what trim elements need removing?

Is this right:

1. Boot side walls
2. Boot protective trim across the opening of the boot
3. Seats to be removed?
4. Rear of the centre console??? (what about the centre console top surrounds where the brushed aluminium normally sits on an S line model)
5. Glovebox opening to be removed/dropped

Any of those unnecessary? And am I missing anything? (e.g. I have no idea how to get the wires under the carpet without an electrician's rod, if you guys can recommend the right kind of Rod off Amazon or fleabay that'd be great )

Many thanks for your help and inspiration on this thread!!!
Hi. Yes, you've listed the right items and the tricky bit is the centre console which isn't really too bad.

1. Just remove the round plastic press-in studs underneath the rear parcel shelf (if that's what it's called..?, mine's a coupe). You don't need to remove the rear bench release controls, the trim (again on coupe) folds around these. Then everything else just pulls away so check for any clips which have stayed in their holes.
2. just pulls upwards after you peel back the rubber strip (same goes for 1)
3. seat benches just pull up - squeeze yourself in there and adopt a weight-lifter stance while grabbing each seat half from underneath and pull up (just don't follow-through at this stage...). The housings came off with the seat when I did mine, so I took them off and replaced them before I fitted the seat back in (a little fiddly to get them off)
4. We'll come back to that one
5. there're about 6 or 7 bolts that need to come off, I just did it by feel, most are inside the glovebox and a few things need unplugging

4. part A. You'll now see see how you can root the cable from the fuses/relays over the wheel arch alongside the existing loom to the now exposed area under the seat. Feed the cable around the edge of the carpet towards the centre console. Take out the ashtray. Now use your trim tools to feel your way around the vent unit which un-clips away. Looking down into the hole you'll find a very awkward black bolt (passenger side) which holds the back/bottom section in place. I found it awkward as the bolt is longer than the allowed room to remove it (I must have been doing it wrong). Once undone, the charger port etc un-clips away leaving a void. Now you can see where the carpet is cut as it comes under the centre console. By lifting the back of the console a little I was able to push a rod in from the seat area, under the carpet and then into the void we've just created.

4. part B. You now have a choice. You can strip parts of the top centre console trim, unclipping as you go, or feed the cable out through to the rear passenger feet area, between the carpet and centre console trim - then it's just a case of feeding the cable up within the trim which runs the length of the passenger side transmission tunnel until you reach the canbus module behind the dash.

Any electricians rods will do - they come in 1m or 30cm sections the latter costing under 7 on ebay and you won't be needing much length. Just take care with the cable when you feed it under the carpet as the connectors are delicate. I wrapped them in tape and them bent the cable back and taped it to itself creating a loop which I could pull through. Good luck!
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Mods completed: s-tronic gear knob, memory seats, Audi rear camera, Connect/Google, kerb-tilt mirror, Bluespark CR Tech 2 tuning box, Audi Drive Select, Audi Active Exhaust
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post #104 of 119 Old 27th February 2017, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigP View Post
Hi. Yes, you've listed the right items and the tricky bit is the centre console which isn't really too bad.

1. Just remove the round plastic press-in studs underneath the rear parcel shelf (if that's what it's called..?, mine's a coupe). You don't need to remove the rear bench release controls, the trim (again on coupe) folds around these. Then everything else just pulls away so check for any clips which have stayed in their holes.
2. just pulls upwards after you peel back the rubber strip (same goes for 1)
3. seat benches just pull up - squeeze yourself in there and adopt a weight-lifter stance while grabbing each seat half from underneath and pull up (just don't follow-through at this stage...). The housings came off with the seat when I did mine, so I took them off and replaced them before I fitted the seat back in (a little fiddly to get them off)
4. We'll come back to that one
5. there're about 6 or 7 bolts that need to come off, I just did it by feel, most are inside the glovebox and a few things need unplugging

4. part A. You'll now see see how you can root the cable from the fuses/relays over the wheel arch alongside the existing loom to the now exposed area under the seat. Feed the cable around the edge of the carpet towards the centre console. Take out the ashtray. Now use your trim tools to feel your way around the vent unit which un-clips away. Looking down into the hole you'll find a very awkward black bolt (passenger side) which holds the back/bottom section in place. I found it awkward as the bolt is longer than the allowed room to remove it (I must have been doing it wrong). Once undone, the charger port etc un-clips away leaving a void. Now you can see where the carpet is cut as it comes under the centre console. By lifting the back of the console a little I was able to push a rod in from the seat area, under the carpet and then into the void we've just created.

4. part B. You now have a choice. You can strip parts of the top centre console trim, unclipping as you go, or feed the cable out through to the rear passenger feet area, between the carpet and centre console trim - then it's just a case of feeding the cable up within the trim which runs the length of the passenger side transmission tunnel until you reach the canbus module behind the dash.

Any electricians rods will do - they come in 1m or 30cm sections the latter costing under 7 on ebay and you won't be needing much length. Just take care with the cable when you feed it under the carpet as the connectors are delicate. I wrapped them in tape and them bent the cable back and taped it to itself creating a loop which I could pull through. Good luck!
WOW - thank you SO MUCH for the detailed write-up!!!

I've got one four more weeks before my warranty runs out... so as soon as that clock strikes I'm gonna get this done! I'll keep you guys posted on how it all goes! I'll try to document it with photos as well so maybe I can add photos to go with your notes for future forum members that might wanna do the same thing.

Love this forum!
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post #105 of 119 Old 7th March 2017, 12:26 PM
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Hi guys.

Really hope you can help me.

I've installed this kit on my car and although it does work, I have to manually enable it every time I start the car.
Also, it makes a rumble only in Dynamic mode. The other modes are quiet.

I've tried to add "C0-Act. for Ext. Noise" module in VAGcom but it can not be reached. I've also manually added
the sound selection menu in Individual settings but it doesn't change the output. It's as if the module was not connected.

I suspect that some additional coding is missing. Has any of you received some instructions from Kufatec or similar? And do you
have to select Dynamic every time you turn on ignition?

Would be super if you could share your code / ideas..
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post #106 of 119 Old 24th March 2017, 03:30 AM
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Sorry to hear about your woes Barmybob, you've sure had a journey with this one!

Mine is off the road with a gearbox issue and will be that way for at least another couple of weeks- luckily its getting repaired under warranty from the indi I bought it from so the damage isn't bad on me this time around! Still raring to get this fitted, the boxes have been sat in my downstairs shower-room for the past 2 months!
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post #107 of 119 Old 29th March 2017, 04:14 AM Thread Starter
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I mentioned that the exhaust module had stopped working to the fellow at CETE. He said he was sure if I reconnected the CETE module and ran through the modes it could be restarted - he was correct. All working again

3.0 Tdi Quattro "Black Edition" Daytona Grey
----------------------------------------------------------
Previously - 2010 3.0 Tdi Quattro S-line Special Edition S-tronic. Black pearl with black leather. Electric seats with memory, Dimming door mirrors & MMi 3g
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post #108 of 119 Old 29th March 2017, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmybob View Post
I mentioned that the exhaust module had stopped working to the fellow at CETE. He said he was sure if I reconnected the CETE module and ran through the modes it could be restarted - he was correct. All working again
That's awesome news!!! Barmybob!

I was just wonderinf, does the CETE ble actvie sound gateway mobile app also let you edit the idle sound by itself, separate to the revving sound?








That's awe
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post #109 of 119 Old 30th March 2017, 03:17 PM Thread Starter
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Yes you can

Should tell you all you need to know

3.0 Tdi Quattro "Black Edition" Daytona Grey
----------------------------------------------------------
Previously - 2010 3.0 Tdi Quattro S-line Special Edition S-tronic. Black pearl with black leather. Electric seats with memory, Dimming door mirrors & MMi 3g
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post #110 of 119 Old 4th April 2017, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barmybob View Post
Thanks Barmybob!



So I got the tools out and got ready to remove the trims and get the wiring done last Sunday.... Turns out all the trim removal instructions I had were for the coupe and not the Sportback!!!! Luggage compartment side trim removal is a totally different procedure/order! #epicfail

Thankfully I found some Sportback trim removal diagrams.... So will try again next week.

Only thing making me worried is that they talk about airbag removal...

What's the safest way to disconnect the airbags, any ideas? The guide says to turn ignition on and disconnect the earth wire from the battery... But I would have thought you'd need to disconnect the battery entirely... What about turning off the ignition after earth wire removal, surely I'm not meant to leave the car running?!? LOL
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post #111 of 119 Old 4th April 2017, 05:15 AM
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@unsilence can you send me the instructions you have for the coupe please bud?

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post #112 of 119 Old 4th April 2017, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
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@unsilence can you send me the instructions you have for the coupe please bud?
Sure thing will do. It was actually a series of diagrams from another post which has all of the relevant trim removal diagrams, I'll dig it up.
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post #113 of 119 Old 4th April 2017, 07:07 AM
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post #114 of 119 Old 4th April 2017, 07:57 AM
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Amazing! Thanks so much, thats solved me load of head scratching!

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post #115 of 119 Old 15th April 2017, 12:31 PM
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Wiring help please!!! :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigP View Post
Hi. Yes, you've listed the right items and the tricky bit is the centre console which isn't really too bad.

1. Just remove the round plastic press-in studs underneath the rear parcel shelf (if that's what it's called..?, mine's a coupe). You don't need to remove the rear bench release controls, the trim (again on coupe) folds around these. Then everything else just pulls away so check for any clips which have stayed in their holes.
2. just pulls upwards after you peel back the rubber strip (same goes for 1)
3. seat benches just pull up - squeeze yourself in there and adopt a weight-lifter stance while grabbing each seat half from underneath and pull up (just don't follow-through at this stage...). The housings came off with the seat when I did mine, so I took them off and replaced them before I fitted the seat back in (a little fiddly to get them off)
4. We'll come back to that one
5. there're about 6 or 7 bolts that need to come off, I just did it by feel, most are inside the glovebox and a few things need unplugging

4. part A. You'll now see see how you can root the cable from the fuses/relays over the wheel arch alongside the existing loom to the now exposed area under the seat. Feed the cable around the edge of the carpet towards the centre console. Take out the ashtray. Now use your trim tools to feel your way around the vent unit which un-clips away. Looking down into the hole you'll find a very awkward black bolt (passenger side) which holds the back/bottom section in place. I found it awkward as the bolt is longer than the allowed room to remove it (I must have been doing it wrong). Once undone, the charger port etc un-clips away leaving a void. Now you can see where the carpet is cut as it comes under the centre console. By lifting the back of the console a little I was able to push a rod in from the seat area, under the carpet and then into the void we've just created.

4. part B. You now have a choice. You can strip parts of the top centre console trim, unclipping as you go, or feed the cable out through to the rear passenger feet area, between the carpet and centre console trim - then it's just a case of feeding the cable up within the trim which runs the length of the passenger side transmission tunnel until you reach the canbus module behind the dash.

Any electricians rods will do - they come in 1m or 30cm sections the latter costing under 7 on ebay and you won't be needing much length. Just take care with the cable when you feed it under the carpet as the connectors are delicate. I wrapped them in tape and them bent the cable back and taped it to itself creating a loop which I could pull through. Good luck!
Hi Barmybob and fellow A5 lovers... so I've started my manual retrofit of the Audi Active sound and FINALLY got the wires all in position from the rear to the front exactly as per Barmybob's instructions, many thanks!!! I decided not to remove all of the trim and thread the cables through the side trim between the carpet and the console exactly as you suggested!

I'm a complete n00b at these sort of things and I'm now stuck with wiring up the electrics and can't make heads or tails of the Audi diagrams and instructions with the connectors my wiring loom came with.

I attach pics below:
- The Audi diagram/instructions
- My Fuse carrier (looks different to the diagram on the right hand side)
- The ways the lilac and white wires came

Some questions:

1. According to instructions, the lilac and white wires are meant to come in a connector housing with part no. "1J0.972.751" - but for some reason my wires I have are housed in a very similar but different connector housing model number, "1J0.972.761". What's the difference - is 751 the same housing or drastically different?!?

2. My F-SF fuse carrier also looks slightly different than the instructions. The bits labelled SF1, SF2 etc. in the diagram are (on my fuse carrier) labelled A, B, C, D and E along the bottom of each fuse carrier column. And those box bits in the diagram labelled A, B, C etc. again these are different on my one, they don't quite tally up with the one in the diagram.

If anyone can help me with a clear set of instructions on exactly what I need to do here that'd be greatly appreciated!
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post #116 of 119 Old 15th April 2017, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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Garage
I would love to help but I didn't fit mine, Audi did

3.0 Tdi Quattro "Black Edition" Daytona Grey
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Previously - 2010 3.0 Tdi Quattro S-line Special Edition S-tronic. Black pearl with black leather. Electric seats with memory, Dimming door mirrors & MMi 3g
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post #117 of 119 Old 15th April 2017, 02:30 PM
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Thanks Barmybob. BTW earlier on I meant BigP's instructions, apologies! Many thanks BigP for all of your help, what a top bloke, a true diamond geezer of the shiniest most precious kind
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post #118 of 119 Old 16th April 2017, 11:19 AM
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Interesting thread - thanks very much!
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post #119 of 119 Old 16th April 2017, 12:52 PM
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SUCCCEEESSSSS!!!!!! Got the wiring working! Popped the actuators in the boot just to quickly plug them in and they didn't work at first, turns out we wired up the wrong orange/brown wire in the canbus module (slots 6 and 7 both have orange/brown wires! lol) but got there in the end.

Never done electric wiring before other than doing it in secondary school LOL But had a bit of help from my bro in law and of course the amazing advice from the contributors in this thread and finally got it to work.

This was my first ever DIY retrofit so it was a tall order for me removing so many panels. It was a real headache at times but an amazing challenge, I can't tell you enough how satisfying it was to finally hear that electronically induced burble working!!!!

So here's my dream next steps...

1. get the active sound exhausts installed by a local garage

2. Pick up either the Kufatec or CETE addons for sound profile customisation

3. Get a custom turboback straightpipe, chop up the Active Sound, take the actuators and wield them onto the custom exhaust for best of both worlds...

You're probably wondering why bother with step 1 when I'm getting a custom exhaust...

a) The place I'm going to get the fabrication from are booked up for quite a while so don't mind enjoying the active exhaust as is in the interim... and

b) the wires that drop down to connect to the actuators are actually very short. I think letting the exhaust fabricators see the setup in place will help them to plan the custom job and ensure the actuators are wielded and positioned in the correct location to be hooked up with sufficient wire length.

I'll keep you guys posted....

Again, thank you SOOOO MUCH guys for your help! Love this forum!
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Last edited by unsilence; 16th April 2017 at 01:04 PM.
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